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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.
Page Views: 3,191 total, 26/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Starts with a hard, bolt-protected mantel(10d), then follows two more bolts up easier climbing. Go slightly right over the small roof with a few finger jams. Then follow the knob climbing (10b) with natural gear for pro. A slight runout to an overlap near the top, but you can place a finger-sized nut immediately after. At the overlap, look for sidepulls on the left.

It is possible to skip the bottom mantel by climbing up to the right (~10a), then stepping onto the mantel ledge. Be careful of the landing though if you fail.

Location

left of the tunnel, a stump makes a good belay rest

Protection

Bolts at the start, gear to number 2 camalot to finish.

For the 10b climbing on knobs, bring small wires.

Photos

Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
Gear beta:
Save a finger-tips sized cam for the top.
A nut might go well in the face.

#indexprovides Sep 12, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks for the heads-up Jessica.

This apparent increase in the shedding of rocks is troublesome. I hope it stops before someone gets hurt.

I never did feel good being under Orc Tower. Aug 20, 2014
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
While at the base and preparing to climb, an unexplained rock came sailing from above. Also noticed very recent rockfall at the base of morning star (to the left of this climb). Yesterday a friend told me he heard from a local that Orc tower above is deteriorating and may be coming down soon, have not verified, but seems reasonable since rockfall occurred recently when I was there and you can see evidence of very fresh rockfall near-by. Something to consider while in the area. Aug 19, 2014
Douglas T
  5.10d
Douglas T  
  5.10d
If you climb one 5.10d at Index, make it this one. Slow Children may be more sustained, but this one makes you feel more ALIVE.

Here's Lukic pulling Zoom. The first part of the video is good beta for the very cryptic first moves. The later part is good for inspiration.


youtube.com/watch?v=bGIkHMa… Jul 4, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.

Fairly recently, rockfall deposited a headstone-sized block squarely at the belay stance; another block the size of a large washing machine landed about 100 feet out from the wall. Heads up! Dec 31, 2008
andyf
Tacoma, WA
  5.10d PG13
andyf   Tacoma, WA
  5.10d PG13
I agree this is a really good pitch (the route actually stretches for three pitches) and one of the better 5.10s at Index. The upper half of the climb has great movement and flow, especially through the knob section. A little more detail might be nice, though. For instance, bring along RPs/HBs or some other kind of micronut, because they're mandatory to protect the upper half of the climb, which mostly uses an incipient seam for pro. There's also a moderate runout to end the route. Right in the middle of the seam is God's Most Perfect Nut Placement (medium wired) to make things chill. Nov 8, 2007