Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.
Page Views: 3,690 total · 27/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


100 Opinions

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Description

Starts with a hard, bolt-protected mantel(10d), then follows two more bolts up easier climbing. Go slightly right over the small roof with a few finger jams. Then follow the knob climbing (10b) with natural gear for pro. A slight runout to an overlap near the top, but you can place a finger-sized nut immediately after. At the overlap, look for sidepulls on the left.

It is possible to skip the bottom mantel by climbing up to the right (~10a), then stepping onto the mantel ledge. Be careful of the landing though if you fail.

Location

left of the tunnel, a stump makes a good belay rest

Protection

Bolts at the start, gear to number 2 camalot to finish.

For the 10b climbing on knobs, bring small wires.

Photos

andyf
Tacoma, WA
  5.10d PG13
andyf   Tacoma, WA
  5.10d PG13
I agree this is a really good pitch (the route actually stretches for three pitches) and one of the better 5.10s at Index. The upper half of the climb has great movement and flow, especially through the knob section. A little more detail might be nice, though. For instance, bring along RPs/HBs or some other kind of micronut, because they're mandatory to protect the upper half of the climb, which mostly uses an incipient seam for pro. There's also a moderate runout to end the route. Right in the middle of the seam is God's Most Perfect Nut Placement (medium wired) to make things chill. Nov 8, 2007
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.

Fairly recently, rockfall deposited a headstone-sized block squarely at the belay stance; another block the size of a large washing machine landed about 100 feet out from the wall. Heads up! Dec 31, 2008
Douglas Taylor
  5.10d
Douglas Taylor  
  5.10d
If you climb one 5.10d at Index, make it this one. Slow Children may be more sustained, but this one makes you feel more ALIVE.

Here's Lukic pulling Zoom. The first part of the video is good beta for the very cryptic first moves. The later part is good for inspiration.


youtube.com/watch?v=bGIkHMa… Jul 4, 2013
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
While at the base and preparing to climb, an unexplained rock came sailing from above. Also noticed very recent rockfall at the base of morning star (to the left of this climb). Yesterday a friend told me he heard from a local that Orc tower above is deteriorating and may be coming down soon, have not verified, but seems reasonable since rockfall occurred recently when I was there and you can see evidence of very fresh rockfall near-by. Something to consider while in the area. Aug 19, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks for the heads-up Jessica.

This apparent increase in the shedding of rocks is troublesome. I hope it stops before someone gets hurt.

I never did feel good being under Orc Tower. Aug 20, 2014
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
Gear beta:
Save a finger-tips sized cam for the top.
A nut might go well in the face.

#indexprovides Sep 12, 2016