Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,270 total · 131/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.

P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.

P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).

P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.

Lower from the P3 bolted anchor and have your follower clean the anchor and then lower back to the P2 bolted anchor. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)

Location

At Rattletale Wall. All Belay stations are bolted, there is a two bolt anchor with chains on top of P3. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.

 

Protection

A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).

Photos