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Routes in Rattletale Wall

Amphibian, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Arch Enemy T A4
Avenging the Goddess Kring T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonobo, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Chasin' the Lizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Claw, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cricket, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Goodall S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eternal Stoke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Millipede, The TR V2 5+
Orangutan, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rattletale T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shrew, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snake, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Source, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wasp, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
With Man Gone Will There Be Hope For Gorilla T A2
Womb, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
ze Squid T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,095 total · 113/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: October 8-9 LTW limited access. Details

Description

This is one of Index's finest hand cracks and well worth the approach hike. Has three short, but athletic, pitches.

P1: Start on some broken face cracks trending up and left to a nice right-facing corner. Crux is low in the corner. End at large ledge.

P2: Prominent hand crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Crack which starts as perfect hands and finishes as wide hands (or layback).

P3: Deep corner slot, also right-facing, with two cracks. You can do a wide stem and jam the thinner, right crack. The crack widens at the top, but you can reach in deep for hand jams. The top is an incut edge, bordering on the forest.

Rappel from a tree about 20 feet left of the route. A single rap with double 60-m will reach the ground. (Or, walk a short distance up and left to get to the classic Zipper pitch.)

Location

At Rattletale Wall. Belay stations are fixed slings on natural features. Pitches are short and can be linked, one 60m rope is enough for rappelling.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams, with double or triple hand-size (i.e. #2 and #3 C4 Camalots).
dcramer  
Just an FYI: the sizes he refers to are for Camelots. Jul 14, 2008
Eric Fjellanger
  5.10a/b
Eric Fjellanger  
  5.10a/b
Thanks, good point, I've updated the description. Jul 15, 2008
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Someone added belay stations at the top of pitches 1 & 2. Feb 20, 2009
Todd Miller   MT
Great route! Cheers to whoever put the P1 and P2 anchors in - not so sure how long the fin/boulder with slings on P1 and the sling covered bush on P2 would have supported the route's well-deserved popularity. Jun 12, 2009
Colin Bartholomew
WASHINGTON
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
Thanks for the stations. Uber classic. Jun 19, 2010
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
This route is well worth seeking out. P2 is pure, burly crack climbing at its finest. P3 is a fun stemming/crack finish (if you've got any gas left in the tank for overhanging crack, that is.) P2 uses only #2's and #3's(though you can plug a #4 in to protect the exit onto the dirty ledge). Aug 8, 2010
There are anchors at the top of the climb. No more need to use the tat on the tree 20 feet back from the climb. Jun 5, 2015
Zacks
 
Zacks  
 
Super fun, I loved pitch 3! didn't need any tiny cams (nothing smaller than .4 and .5 woulda been fine) rapped from the chains at the top of pitch 3 to top of pitch 1 on a single 70, we still had plenty of rope left, i bet a 60 would make that as well. Jun 14, 2016
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
Stellar route! The beautiful P2 splitter is literally a baby version of the Enduro Corner pitch on Astroman. The last pitch has 3 different options. 1 is to stem the lower part of the chimney, placing gear in the thin right crack. 2 is to lieback as much of the crack as possible, with some solid jams coming higher. 3, stem up 6 feet and force yourself into the wide crack on the left, battling and struggling your way up the steep off width as burly as any I've ever climbed before (this way is more advisable after first establishing a TR). Either way, this route rocks. Go do it. Do it. Jun 30, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10a/b
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10a/b
Such a fun route! P2 and P3 are classic. P2 is deceptively steep from the photos and approach. I'd bring 3 #2s if you want to protect it well. We just had doubles of 2/3 and my partner had to back clean.
There is now a fixed 4 in the top out of P3, outer lobe is bent. Aug 29, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a/b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a/b
there is no longer a #4 in 3rd pitch, but as a whole the route is cleaner as of Sept. 2016.
I did some scrubbing from top to bottom. The upper ledges are still loose. just too much to clear off, probably will continue to erode and stream dirt down route, but at least the top outs are not as bad. The 1st pitch is completely scrubbed, but will always collect needles and leaves. Sep 9, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10a/b
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10a/b
Thanks for the hard work if that was you Geoff, cleaning all the dirt off the mantle on the 1st pitch was very nice. Last time I kicked some rocks on my belayer there.
Getting that fixed #4 out does make for nicer climbing on the finish, it was right where my feet wanted to be before. Sep 27, 2016
Seanald
  5.10b
Seanald  
  5.10b
Pitch 2 is amazing! FYI there's a fixed x4 0.75 cam on the first pitch that was wiggling like it might come out with some effort. Jul 5, 2017
Lavran Johnson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Lavran Johnson   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Absolutely fantastic - even the first pitch would be a classic at the grade (8ish), and the upper two are sustained and beautiful. As of 8/14/17, there's a fixed #3 about 1/2way up P2. Aug 15, 2017
Brennan Enright
Seattle, WA
 
Brennan Enright   Seattle, WA
 
As of 4/27 the fixed #3 was still on p2 and p3 was a little wet but manageable and oh so fun. Also as of 4/27 I think I left my shoes at the base of the climb. If anyone found some TC pros there I can describe them to confirm and would provide beer for their safe return! pm me if you have them, thanks May 4, 2018

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