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Routes in Static Point

Online T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Elevation: 3,441 ft
GPS: 47.939, -121.59 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Chris S on May 15, 2015 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

Fantastic slab climbing reminiscent of Toulumne, but less featured than nearby Darrington. One of the first granite domes in Washington to be established with battery-powered drills with the first route being climbed in 1983. The approach used to be only about 30 minutes, but over the years, the old logging road used for access has become impassible, adding time to the approach. So now you'll likely be the only team climbing there if you make the effort, surrounded by beautiful alpine peaks.

Static Point is only found in two out-of-print guidebooks: 20 routes from 5.8-5.11+ are detailed in "Sky Valley Rock" by Darryl Cramer (2000), and three were picked for "Select Climbs in the Cascades, Vol 2". The books compliment each other - try to find both if you can.

Pitch lengths tend to be +40 meters in length, requiring a tag line or a second rope to be brought for descents. Bolts tend to be old 3/8 with SMC hangers, but that's being replaced with new Fixe hardware. Expect to see a mix of both.

6 quickdraws, 4 shoulder slings, a set of stoppers to #4-10, and a set of cams 0.3-1 should do you fine. Pitches typically feature 1-5 bolts for protection with scattered opportunities to place protection. Anchors are 2-3 bolts.

On Line, (described here), also features rappel rings and/or chains and has become the principal descent route.

The walls are roughly south-facing and thus can be quite hot on sunny days.

Getting There

1.5 hours from Seattle. Drive US2 from Monroe to Sultan. On the east edge of town and up a slight rise is the last traffic light for Sultan Basin Road - turn left. Drive 13 miles north and east along this windy road to Spada Reservoir. Check in at the self-check-in station, then continue further to the fork. Take the right fork, which goes down around the southern tip of the reservoir. At about 2 miles, cross an obvious bridge and park in the first turnout on the left (lake) side - directly across is an old blocked-off logging road (that you used to be able to drive up, as the old guidebooks state). Start hiking this old, eroded, overgrown road, passing numerous ravines where there had once been culverts. At about 45-60 minutes of easy, largely level hiking, and just before a large and often dry riverbed, you'll find the first cairn and a view up the riverbed to slabs and Static Peak. Continue across the riverbed, and about 100 feet further is a another cairn placed on top of an old culvert, and marking the departure from the road. The trail turns left up the hill, following alongside the riverbed before bearing upwards and right. 20-30 minutes of steady climbing leads to the bottom of the dome, and the start of On Line.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Static Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Online
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 6 pitches
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