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Static Point Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Static Point

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	Black Fly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Lost Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Online T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Elevation:	3,491 ft	1,064 m
GPS:	47.93862, -121.59045 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,944 total · 111/month
Shared By:	Chris Simmons-Solomon on May 15, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Update August 2020! The Online Sector has been fully rebolted, and a rappel descent added, making ascents with a single 60m rope possible. More information including new topos can be found here: LINK.

Fantastic slab climbing reminiscent of Toulumne, but less featured than nearby Darrington. One of the first granite domes in Washington to be established with battery-powered drills with the first route being climbed in 1983. The approach used to be only about 30 minutes, but over the years, the old logging road used for access has become impassible, adding time to the approach. So now you'll likely be the only team climbing there if you make the effort, surrounded by beautiful alpine peaks.

The comprehensive guide to Static Point is only found in one out-of-print guidebooks: 20 routes from 5.8-5.11+ are detailed in "Sky Valley Rock" by Darryl Cramer (2000). Three of the most popular routes were picked for "Select Climbs in the Cascades, Vol 2". Seven are in the "Weekend Rock - Washington" which is currently in print by The Mountaineers Books. Be aware that none of the guidebooks have the current approach conditions correct.

Pitch lengths commonly are +40 meters in length, requiring a tag line or a second rope to be brought for descents. Bolts tend to be old 3/8 with SMC hangers, but that's slowly being replaced with new hardware as of 2018 / 2019. Expect to see a mix of both.

6 quickdraws, 4 shoulder slings, a set of stoppers to #4-10, and a set of cams 0.3-1 should do you fine. Pitches typically feature 1-5 bolts for protection with scattered opportunities to place protection. Anchors are 2-3 bolts. Bold run-out's are quite common.

On Line, (described here), also features rappel rings and/or chains ~~and has become the principal descent route~~.

The walls are roughly south-facing and thus can be quite hot on sunny days.

Getting There

1.5 hours from Seattle. Drive US2 from Monroe to Sultan. On the east edge of town and up a slight rise is the last traffic light for Sultan Basin Road - turn left. Drive 13 miles north and east along this windy road to Spada Reservoir. Check in at the self-check-in station, then continue further to the fork. Take the right fork, which goes down around the southern tip of the reservoir. At about 2 miles, cross an obvious bridge and park in the first turnout on the left (lake) side - directly across is an old blocked-off logging road (that you used to be able to drive up, as the guidebooks state). Start hiking this old, eroded, overgrown road, passing numerous ravines where there had once been culverts. At about 45-60 minutes of easy, largely level hiking, and just before a large and often dry riverbed, you'll find the first cairn and a view up the riverbed to slabs and Static Peak. Continue across the riverbed, and about 100 feet further is a another cairn placed on top of an old culvert, and marking the departure from the road. The trail turns left up the hill, following alongside the riverbed before bearing upwards and right. 20-30 minutes of steady climbing leads to the bottom of the dome, and the start of On Line.