Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Chris Greyell, Bob DeChenne, Peter Skardvelt 1983 |
Page Views: | 2,787 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Josh Martinell on Sep 3, 2018 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
P1 ascends up and right, past a fixed pin, to a corner with a two bolt anchor (anchor is not visible from below).
P2 ascends left, crossing above the bolt anchors for The Pillar and continuing past a bush to the Pillar ledge. Belay from a two bolt anchor.
P3 ascends up (small gear) and right across the bridge flake feature with a wide crack. Make a gear belay at the far end from an okay stance.
P4 ascends a shallow '5.6 finger crack' a few feet right of the belay to it's end at some small edges and then traverse right and make a gear belay.
P5 Ascend obvious features towards the Great Flake. Clip the bolt and make a 5.9 slab move to easier holds then undercling the Great Flake right and around. Continue up past good gear placements then up across slab (5.8) towards the bolt anchors.
Weekend Rock recommends rappeling Shock Treatment (climbers right) but we found the first rappel station in poor condition. A direct line on the Pillar route (to the right of Lost Charms) provides a better decent and ends at the start of Lost Charms.
Rappel with 2 60m ropes. It may be possible to rappel with 2 50m ropes.
P2 ascends left, crossing above the bolt anchors for The Pillar and continuing past a bush to the Pillar ledge. Belay from a two bolt anchor.
P3 ascends up (small gear) and right across the bridge flake feature with a wide crack. Make a gear belay at the far end from an okay stance.
P4 ascends a shallow '5.6 finger crack' a few feet right of the belay to it's end at some small edges and then traverse right and make a gear belay.
P5 Ascend obvious features towards the Great Flake. Clip the bolt and make a 5.9 slab move to easier holds then undercling the Great Flake right and around. Continue up past good gear placements then up across slab (5.8) towards the bolt anchors.
Weekend Rock recommends rappeling Shock Treatment (climbers right) but we found the first rappel station in poor condition. A direct line on the Pillar route (to the right of Lost Charms) provides a better decent and ends at the start of Lost Charms.
Rappel with 2 60m ropes. It may be possible to rappel with 2 50m ropes.
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