Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Greyell, Bob DeChenne, Peter Skardvelt 1983
Page Views: 561 total · 38/month
Shared By: Josh Martinell on Sep 3, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

P1 ascends up and right, past a fixed pin, to a corner with a two bolt anchor (anchor is not visible from below).

P2 ascends left, crossing above the bolt anchors for The Pillar and continuing past a bush to the Pillar ledge. Belay from a two bolt anchor. 

P3 ascends up (small gear) and right across the bridge flake feature with a wide crack. Make a gear belay at the far end from an okay stance. 

P4 ascends a shallow '5.6 finger crack' a few feet right of the belay to it's end at some small edges and then traverse right and make a gear belay. 

P5 Ascend obvious features towards the Great Flake. Clip the bolt and make a 5.9 slab move to easier holds then undercling the Great Flake right and around. Continue up past good gear placements then up across slab (5.8) towards the bolt anchors. 

Weekend Rock recommends rappeling Shock Treatment (climbers right) but we found the first rappel station in poor condition. A direct line on the Pillar route (to the right of Lost Charms) provides a better decent and ends at the start of Lost Charms.
Rappel with 2 60m ropes. It may be possible to rappel with 2 50m ropes.

Location

Scramble right (east) and down from On line. A bolt with a sling make a nice handhold crossing a steep section before climbing up to the Pillar area. Lost Charms begins at the a tree with a 5' flake sticking out of the ground next to it.

Protection

Single set of cams .1-3. Ball nuts may be useful as well.

Photos

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