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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FA P1 short: Roger Johnson, Doug Leen. P1 full: Kit Hanes, Bob Lagenbach. FFA P1 short: Peter Croft. P1 Full: Dick Cilley, Dante Leonardi
Page Views: 6,063 total · 45/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Killer line. Crux is getting out of the thin crack and above on the slab. I think the line goes up into the (gut wrenching) shallow corner above. But you can cross over to sag and top out that way.

Location

Thin crack 20'left of sag start.

Protection

Small nuts plus cams. a #6 HB brass works great above the crux. some tat on a pin in lower crack.

Photos

The tat looks unsightly, but both pins are driven so deeply into the crack that they are impossible to clip with a carabiner, and it requires some effort to even get webbing or cord through the eyes. Changing this out every year or so seems like a good decision, the old stuff was faded and crusty. If the pins were gone, I don't think they would need to be replaced, but since they are still there, and still BOMBER, they may as well offer something you can clip, not just get tetanus from.


Despite the description above, most folks find the crux to be getting OFF the slab stance, or pulling into the chimney just below the first anchor. There's nothing in the flare or the roof above which is nearly as hard as several of the lower moves below anchor #1. The blocky roof after anchor #2, rated .11c or .12a in the two guidebooks, is more like 5.10+. It must be a misprint or maybe even Index has a token over-graded pitch. You can lower back to the ground from anchor #3 with a 70m. Apr 14, 2014
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The route can be finished via 4 different combinations above the first anchor:

1: Continue straight up the flared corner and over the roof (.12a). Protection is C2 quality in the corner (RP's useful) but the climbing is solid (.10+ chimney/flare). The roof is excellent (.11c). This is the "complete" first pitch, although it was first free-climbed as the short version by Peter Croft.

2: At the first anchor, step right to the Ringing Flake and continue up Sagittarius, ending either at the anchor beneath the roof or, for full value, continue over the Sagittarius roof.

3: Proceed as for #2, but instead of continuing over the Sagittarius roof, step left and finish as for #1 above the flare. This excludes the flare if you don't like 5.10 flared chimneys.

4: Proceed as for #1, but step right after the flare and continue over the Sagittarius roof. Jul 3, 2008

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