Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FA P1 short: Roger Johnson, Doug Leen. P1 full: Kit Hanes, Bob Lagenbach. FFA P1 short: Peter Croft. P1 Full: Dick Cilley, Dante Leonardi
Page Views: 6,880 total · 47/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Killer line. Crux is getting out of the thin crack and above on the slab. I think the line goes up into the (gut wrenching) shallow corner above. But you can cross over to sag and top out that way.

Location

Thin crack 20'left of sag start.

Protection

Small nuts plus cams. a #6 HB brass works great above the crux. some tat on a pin in lower crack.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The route can be finished via 4 different combinations above the first anchor:

1: Continue straight up the flared corner and over the roof (.12a). Protection is C2 quality in the corner (RP's useful) but the climbing is solid (.10+ chimney/flare). The roof is excellent (.11c). This is the "complete" first pitch, although it was first free-climbed as the short version by Peter Croft.

2: At the first anchor, step right to the Ringing Flake and continue up Sagittarius, ending either at the anchor beneath the roof or, for full value, continue over the Sagittarius roof.

3: Proceed as for #2, but instead of continuing over the Sagittarius roof, step left and finish as for #1 above the flare. This excludes the flare if you don't like 5.10 flared chimneys.

4: Proceed as for #1, but step right after the flare and continue over the Sagittarius roof. Jul 3, 2008
The tat looks unsightly, but both pins are driven so deeply into the crack that they are impossible to clip with a carabiner, and it requires some effort to even get webbing or cord through the eyes. Changing this out every year or so seems like a good decision, the old stuff was faded and crusty. If the pins were gone, I don't think they would need to be replaced, but since they are still there, and still BOMBER, they may as well offer something you can clip, not just get tetanus from.


Despite the description above, most folks find the crux to be getting OFF the slab stance, or pulling into the chimney just below the first anchor. There's nothing in the flare or the roof above which is nearly as hard as several of the lower moves below anchor #1. The blocky roof after anchor #2, rated .11c or .12a in the two guidebooks, is more like 5.10+. It must be a misprint or maybe even Index has a token over-graded pitch. You can lower back to the ground from anchor #3 with a 70m. Apr 14, 2014