All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area
Avg: 3.9 from 195 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dan Davis, John Holland|
|Page Views:||19,838 total · 125/month|
|Shared By:||Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details
Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2019. This includes climbs in the Black Sea area of the Upper Cheeks. The Perverse Traverse is open to reach the Beach area, but if any defensive behavior is observed, climbers should leave the surrounding area & report activity: firstname.lastname@example.org. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program this year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).
P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner. 5.8+
P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 5.10a
P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms). 5.10c
Instead of rapping the route, it is a wiser choice to make one double rope (60m) rap to anchors at the top of the sport wall. From there a second double-rope rap will get you to the ground.
The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."