Avg: 3.9 from 249 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dan Davis, John Holland|
|Page Views:||24,702 total · 133/month|
|Shared By:||Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).
P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner. 5.8+
P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 5.10a
P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms). 5.10c
Instead of rapping the route, it is wiser to rappel 25m to a 3-bolt anchor directly below the P3 anchor. Then either a double-rope (55m) rap to the ground or a couple more 20-30m rappels trending climber's left via anchors on the sport wall.