Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Davis, John Holland; FFA Pete Doorish, Mead Hargis (1971)
Page Views: 27,659 total · 130/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).

P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner. 5.8+

P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 5.10a

P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms). 5.10c

Instead of rapping the route, it is wiser to rappel 25m to a 3-bolt anchor directly below the P3 anchor.  Then either a double-rope (55m) rap to the ground or a couple more 20-30m rappels trending climber's left via anchors on the sport wall.

Location Suggest change

The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."

Protection Suggest change

A typical trad route, gear to 3" will suffice, although you could probably be fine without a #3. The crux pitch protects with small nuts, so bring extras if possible. All anchors are bolted.