Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Davis, John Holland
Page Views: 19,838 total · 125/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details


The Davis-Holland Route is a super-classic at Index. Although it technically has 6 pitches, most only do the first 3 and either rap from there or continue up Lovin' Arms to the top of the Upper Wall (this combination is also very classic).

P1: Jam up a handcrack (sometimes a little wet when the rest of the route is dry). Upon reaching a ledge, wander over right and then back to your left on small terraces to reach a bolted belay in a right-facing corner. 5.8+

P2: Jam and/or lieback the crack up the right-facing corner to another bolted belay. 5.10a

P3: Climb up and right from the anchor, around the roof, then back left into a right-facing corner (another variation goes directly out left around the corner past a bolt, but the moves are very balancy and potentially harder than the route's original crux). Climb up the corner past a crux with delicate footwork and small holds to a bolted belay on a ledge. Rap from this belay (or continue on Lovin Arms). 5.10c

Instead of rapping the route, it is a wiser choice to make one double rope (60m) rap to anchors at the top of the sport wall. From there a second double-rope rap will get you to the ground.


The route is immediately to the left when you reach the upper town walls via the standard approach trail. It heads up a corner to the left of a blank face. Further uphill is the "sport wall."


A typical trad route, gear to 3" will suffice, although you could probably be fine without a #3. The crux pitch protects with small nuts, so bring extras if possible. All anchors are bolted.