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Noble Pursuits
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Full (or nearly) Wall Routes
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12 Angry Bees S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4 |
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Ave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Beast That Hath Two Backs, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0 |
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Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Divine Moments of Truth T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Electromatic Mark IV T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gnostic Diversions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
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Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3 |
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Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 |
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Noble Pursuits T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Non-Local Bark House T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sisu S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0 |
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Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2+ |
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Uptown High Rise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3- |
| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ben Hubbard, Michal Rynkiewicz |
| Page Views: | 895 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Ben jamin on Jul 25, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Do you remember the feeling of leading Princely Ambitions for the first time as a newbie and wish you could re-create that as a more experienced climber? Well then boy do I have the right route for you. This route follows the first 2.5 pitches of Uptown High Rise before splitting off right before the 5.11 crux on two bolts of 5.7 to finish on a few fun moves of 5.9 reminiscent of Princely Ambitions. Doing the route this way keeps it at a fun moderate 5.10d with ~250 of sustained quality climbing. and one easy rappel back to Madsen's. The first two pitches can be easily top roped by following the Via Ferrata to the top of Madsen's Ledge.
Pitch 1 (5.7, ~40 ft): Climb up the short fist/arm crack. Almost every move can be protected with a #3 or #4 (two 4s are nice to have if at your limit). Belay at the bolt above the crack, at the base of the corner, on gear, or sling the Via Ferrata to make an anchor near the corner (probably easiest). This pitch can be easily skipped by following the hand lines to the base of the Via Ferrata.
Pitch 2 (5.10+, ~130 ft): Climb up the long obvious corner through 18 bolts to Madsen's Ledge - don't forget two for the anchor. This pitch is long, sustained, and harder than it looks, but features several great rests to plan your moves out. If you're running out of draws at the end, it should be easy to back clean a couple at the top.
Pitch 3 (5.10+, ~100 ft): Move the belay ~20 ft left on Madsen's Ledge to the base of a short steep corner crack. Place a cam and climb up the crack (#4 and 0.5 useful) then make an exciting move up onto the ledge (scary but safe with an attentive belay). Once on the ledge, climb up some face moves through two bolts and gear in between to a Thank God hand crack. Continue up the hand crack past the first set of chains through a 5.8 crack. Once through the 5.8 crack follow two bolts out right on easy jugs (~5.7) to the base of a crack/ledge. Follow the crack right and pull your way up to the chains. If you've done Princely Ambitions this should feel very reminiscent.
One rappel gets you to Madsen's Ledge and then you can downclimb the Via Ferrata to get back to the base.
Location
Walk to the base of the Upper Town Wall from the Country. This route begins at a short crack below the Via Ferrata that takes one to Madsen's Ledge. After hiking to the base, walk right - following along the base for 1-2 minutes until you reach a short 5.7 fist crack with a long corner behind it.
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