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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rise and Fall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Thomas Ramier
Page Views: 431 total · 26/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb a face and arete past three bolts to a steep corner with a crack in the back. Stem and jamb up corner using cams for pro. Tricky arete and stemming above leads to a semi-hanging belay. 5.11d

Pitch 2: Head left from the belay and join the second pitch of GGLBB above the crux of that pitch. 5.11a (Note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be joined with minimal rope drag)

Pitch 3: Climb the amazing 3rd pitch of GGLBB to a belay in a corner. 5.11d

Pitch 4: Leave the corner and head left onto the exposed face to start this long and varied pitch. Be careful not to step on the starfish! 5.11c

Pitch 5: After a tenuous move above the belay(crux) climb the broken face passing bolts where needed. A few small cams can be added to tame the easier climbing between the bolts. 5.10

Location

Start 50' to the left of Good Girls Like Bad Boys at a two bolt stance on a narrow part of Madsens Ledge. There is a hand line in place as of 8/16
Descend as for GGLBB

Protection

16-18 quick draws and a small collection of trinkets from tips to fat fingers for pitch 1 and pitch 5. 4-6 cams total.

Photos

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