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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Aid, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,414 total · 14/month
Shared By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

(IMO) P3 of this route is one of the best aid lines at Index

an old classic that needs some work.

P1: Manky bolts need replacing. Use P1 of Abraxus or Waterway to access the ledge. Waterway P1 will get you to the belay ledge at the end of Golden Arch P2. Abraxus P1 & P2 will get you there too.

P2: Follow the groove with nuts and bashies to the main belay ledge

P3: (C2) A thin dihedral starts dead vertical and slowly rolls to the right. Bring offset cams, brass nuts, cam hooks and ballnuts. This pitch is generally climbed clean

The belay at the start of P3 was replaced in 2009. The belay at the end of the pitch is 3x 5 piece bolts in good condition. this is an amazing place to spend the night on a ledge. It's protected by a large roof.

P4: (A3) Hook sketchy flakes and clip old bashies around the corner to gear climbing. GO up to the belay (unknown status).

P5+: didn't do

Location

Follow the UTW trail to the main wall, head to the right and find Abraxus or the Waterway. P1 starts on the overhang in between. Look for some manky bolts up high.

Protection

Cams to 3# offset nuts and cam hooks a must

Photos

Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
A couple notes regarding the third pitch - firstly, C2 seems like a bit of a sandbag, it is significantly harder and more sustained than Iron Horse, Stern Farmer, or the second pitch of Green Drag-on; secondly, the pitch only goes "clean" with the fixed pitons on the upper blank section. Apr 16, 2015

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