Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches
FA: Don Brooks, 1980
Page Views: 11,489 total · 87/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


130 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description


This route continues directly upward from the third pitch of Davis-Holland, and the linkup of these two is considered a classic.

P1: 5.10b - From the anchor, tenuous face holds and side-pulling in shallow cracks brings you to an excellent hand crack. Follow the hand crack up into a mossy chimney that presents many options. A two-bolt anchor lies on the left side of the chimney on top of a small ledge.

P2: 5.10a, 5.10c A0, or 5.11c, depending on how you go - The original route, with a single bolt for aid if you traverse right from the anchors. Pulling on a sling brings you to a crack system; these moves go free at 5.11c.

The more common way is to continue up the chimney for about 20 feet then follow a crack on a ramp that goes down and right to a shallow corner. Done this way the pitch is overall 5.10a.

Either way, from this point continue up a crack in a small corner until some large solid holds become available, then rightward and upward to a mantle onto a large ledge and the anchors.

P3: From the anchors climb up the quartz-like face, past one bolt, to some cracks that will take gear. Hand and footholds are numerous but many are downsloping. Continue directly upward to the anchors, or bail out leftward into the pine trees. This pitch probably deserves an R rating.

For descent, you may rappel the route with 2 60m ropes, use one of many rappel options to climber's left, or walk off easily. To find the trail, go leftward until you find the dirt road, follow it until you reach a steel and cable barricade, and go left. This trail links up with the UTW approach trail, about 3/4 of the way up.

Location

Starts slightly right of the top of Davis-Holland pitch 3. then slants back left. Two crack systems leave the ledge; LA takes the right one.

Protection

A set of nuts, a double rack of cams from finger-size to #2 C4, and a single #3 C4 were quite adequate.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Free moves are .11b on the 'aid' section and are entertaining thin edging. The final pitch has enough loose rock to warrant a 5.9+ R rating. Dec 29, 2008
Also can be rappelled with a 70m rope when parties are not below you. Jun 30, 2009
Tod Bloxham
Tacoma, WA
Tod Bloxham   Tacoma, WA
Great climb and finish for Davis-Holland.

P1 - The double cracks seemed harder than 10b.

P2 - We did the alternate 10c (15+ feet up then traverse right on a hand crack) rather than traverse over to the aid bolt. This seemed much easier than 10c and easier than the first pitch.

P3 - Random easier face/edge climbing, and is easily linked with P2.

If you only have a 60 meter rope, there is a decent way to rap off the upper town wall using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
-Walk climbers left over to the top of Heaven's Gate (The anchors are a little hard to find, but but it is the second bolt line from climbers left of the main chimney/corner; the anchors are down one ledge, past a small tree, then anchors are below this ledge/tree on another ledge at the edge of the wall).
-Rappel straight down 30 meters to next bolted anchors on Heaven's Gate (you will be at the ends of your rope).
-Rappel down 30 meters to the very ends of your rope and pull/walk yourself ~30' over to the anchors on Golden Road (the anchors are not very visible until you are near the ends of your rope, and you will be at the last 2-3 feet of your rope to reach the anchors; there is little to no rope abrasion when pulling/walking yourself over if you position your rope properly).
-Rappel to next anchors on Golden Road.
-Rappel <30 meters to a ledge 15 feet off the ground (ropes will be out of sight down an overhang).
-Scramble down off of the ledge after pulling your rope.

Be aware! These are full length rappels on a 60 meter, so if you are unsure of your rope length, walk off instead (or bring a 70 meter or double ropes). Aug 24, 2009
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10c A0
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10c A0
The last pitch has a major loose block right below the tree. Pulling it off would put it right on your belayer.

Also a 70 meter rope does not reach all the way down to the first pitch. You will come up about 10 feet short. My partner found this out the hard way. Aug 30, 2009
Jeff Woodward
Boulder, CO
Jeff Woodward   Boulder, CO
Additional rap beta:

With two 60M ropes, you can rap all the way from the top of the route to the top of Davis-Holland in one rappel. You'll have about 6 feet of extra rope at the end. Jul 30, 2011
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
I agree with Tod above. The second pitch seems much easier than 10c. The traverse part is probably 8+ and the crack-face climbing to the ledge seems like 10a.

All three pitches are a blast. The jamming on the first pitch is fantastic -- nice fingerlocks and hand jams. Aug 24, 2012
Eric Hirst
  5.10b/c
Eric Hirst  
  5.10b/c
Finally topped out on this one yesterday, more than 20 years (!) after I first tried it. Great line, and, with the chimney variation on P2, quite a bit easier than Davis Holland.

Taking a suggestion from the Davis Holland comments, we brought 4 green 3/4 Camalots, and were able to place most or all of them on almost all 6 pitches of DH/LA. I thought the first 20 feet of P1 was the crux of LA. There were some scary blocks directly above the belay in the chimney version of P2. P3 was Type I Fun; I trended L near the top and found plenty of good protection and no loose rock.

We were happy to walk off L on a very nice trail system marred by a short section of illegal Jeep track. When in doubt, stay L on the walk-off; other options lead you either back into Deliverance country or drop you too low on the UTW approach trail. Jul 29, 2013
I find that doing pitch 2 via the A0-10c moves WAY more fun and secure. A chain has been installed to replace the sling. Oct 10, 2014
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10b/c
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10b/c
"Also a 70 meter rope does not reach all the way down to the first pitch. You will come up about 10 feet short. My partner found this out the hard way."-

70m rope works to rap the entire DHLA route. Perhaps these guys had a short 70m or rapped using different stations.

"The final pitch has enough loose rock to warrant a 5.9+ R rating."
We didn't find any loose rock on this pitch, nor a lack of gear. The gear may be small and technical, but no way this pitch warrants an R rating. Aug 15, 2016
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
Climbed yesterday (may 20 2017) and one of the big blocks wedged in the chimney at the start of pitch 2 shifted a bit. It is probably fairly wedged in there but I have not had it shift on me on previous ascents of this route so the wet winter could have loosened it a bit. Just be careful pulling outwards. Especially since your belayer is directly below.... May 21, 2017
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
another index route with some serious star inflation. i have no idea how it gets 4 stars when out of the 3 pitches, the first pitch is half throw-away and the second pitch is half throw away. the third pitch is good but ultra short. Mar 15, 2018
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  • RECENT ROCKFALL WARNING* Reports of LARGE rockfall on May 5th and 6th, large block in chimney of Lovin Arms was reported to have shifted multiple inches on May 4th.

As of the 8th no one has been up to inspect Lovin Arms to inspect yet. Please steer clear of the base area for the time being. May 7, 2019 · Temporary Report
CLOSURE WARNING. 5/7/2019 We are going up this afternoon/evening to check out and potentially do some trundling around DHLA. There has been a lot of rock fall this week. I’ll post notes on trail and flagging, but if you see this or have friends going to upper town wall, let them know to stay off DHLA and anything next to it/ around the base this evening. Thanks everyone! May 7, 2019 · Temporary Report
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
Did hear about the rockfall, but didnt see the closure, sorry!
climbed DHLA thursday 5/9. the big blocks in the LA P2 chimney ring but do not move. some dirt and loose chips throughout. climbs more more awkward than before. really no pro for this section since the crack on the right rings too.... someone needs to go up with a big bar and rip these things out... Its only a matter of time before someone in over their heads places pro in the chimney, falls, and kills themself and their partner as well as people on the ledge below.
having done this route a half dozen times or so, Im realizing that I agree with previous comments of star inflation. almost all of P2 is actually not solid. so many loose holds and detached sounding rock throughout the pitch, where, in many cases it is your only option for pro. P1 is O.K and P3 is fun but short. May 11, 2019