All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall > Central Wall Area
Avg: 3.6 from 134 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Don Brooks, 1980|
|Page Views:||11,870 total · 88/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Fjellanger on Jun 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details
Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2019. This includes climbs in the Black Sea area of the Upper Cheeks. The Perverse Traverse is open to reach the Beach area, but if any defensive behavior is observed, climbers should leave the surrounding area & report activity: email@example.com. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program this year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
This route continues directly upward from the third pitch of Davis-Holland, and the linkup of these two is considered a classic.
P1: 5.10b - From the anchor, tenuous face holds and side-pulling in shallow cracks brings you to an excellent hand crack. Follow the hand crack up into a mossy chimney that presents many options. A two-bolt anchor lies on the left side of the chimney on top of a small ledge.
P2: 5.10a, 5.10c A0, or 5.11c, depending on how you go - The original route, with a single bolt for aid if you traverse right from the anchors. Pulling on a sling brings you to a crack system; these moves go free at 5.11c.
The more common way is to continue up the chimney for about 20 feet then follow a crack on a ramp that goes down and right to a shallow corner. Done this way the pitch is overall 5.10a.
Either way, from this point continue up a crack in a small corner until some large solid holds become available, then rightward and upward to a mantle onto a large ledge and the anchors.
P3: From the anchors climb up the quartz-like face, past one bolt, to some cracks that will take gear. Hand and footholds are numerous but many are downsloping. Continue directly upward to the anchors, or bail out leftward into the pine trees. This pitch probably deserves an R rating.
For descent, you may rappel the route with 2 60m ropes, use one of many rappel options to climber's left, or walk off easily. To find the trail, go leftward until you find the dirt road, follow it until you reach a steel and cable barricade, and go left. This trail links up with the UTW approach trail, about 3/4 of the way up.
Starts slightly right of the top of Davis-Holland pitch 3. then slants back left. Two crack systems leave the ledge; LA takes the right one.