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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sisu S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Larry Kemp, 91 FFA w/P4 variation: Mikey Schaefer, 2011
Page Views: 1,691 total · 14/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: October 8-9 LTW limited access. Details

Description

This route is a masterpiece of edgy granite 5.11 up high, while down low there is a variety show of interesting and challenging climbing. P2 has some strange granite puzzles and P3 has steep crack climbing. P4 crosses a band of rock resembling diorite or quartzite. The free variation is way cool too, but may expand your definition of what '.11+' feels like. When we did the route in '05 or so, there was a little bit of moss and lichen that made the holds feel smaller. A cursory brushing even with a simple Lapis brush and some chalk would do wonders for making the climbing more fun.

P1 (Hard .11+): Edge and crank your way past two small roofs into a cruxy corner. Slightly mossy climbing finishes at bolted anchors on a ledge. Sometimes treated as a 'separate' climb because of its difficulty. 100'.

P2 (.11+): Fun face climbing heads to the right off the belay through two obvious cruxes to another belay stance. This is the crux pitch but only if you skipped the first pitch by climbing in from Town Crier or Green Drag-On. 80'

P3 (5.9+): Steep crack climbing leads to a large ledge (Smokeout Ledge). Gear to #3 camalot. 45'.

P4 (5.10 A0 or "hard 5.11d", AKA .12b/c): A few A0 bolt pulls over a blank bulge access very interesting face climbing in a large band of diorite-like rock which end in a semi-hanging belay at a stance. 90'. Alternately, a free variation (.12c) starts to the right of the bolt ladder, crossing it at its 2nd or 3rd bolt. A crux down low leads to flat edges and a poor stance. A friction crux requiring some serious granite sorcery climbs out of a left arching corner and leads to easier climbing on the diorite-like rock above, rejoining the regular Swim route at the anchor.

P5 (.11): This and the next pitch share the same thin and technical face climbing. They both are solid 5.11.

P6 (.11): See previous pitch. This one may be a touch harder.

P7 (5.9+): Bolted climbing up quartzite goes to the top of the wall. A small amount of natural gear may be required on this pitch.

Location

This starts down and right of the obvious first pitch crack of Town Crier/Green Dragon, which is on a pedestal higher up the trail. Climb past two bolts to a stance at the base of the tough climbing.

A single 70m rope guarantees a no-frills descent. I'm pretty sure a 70m is required to rappel the first pitch with a single rope. A walk-off is also possible, but far less convenient.

Protection

All bolts except for P3 and possibly the final pitch. Take 12-14 QD's including a couple of longer slings. Gear to #3 Camalots (maybe #4) is needed for P3. All anchors are fixed and equipped for rappel. As of fall '06, the bolts all looked pretty good.

Photos

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Is there a bolted anchor at the very top of Swim to start the raps? Aug 2, 2015
Drewsky
  5.12b/c
Drewsky  
  5.12b/c
The picture in le geedbook hints at a tree anchor. When you and I did the route, I can't recall if we did the last pitch and walked off or what. I'm guessing we rapped. I'm betting that with some extra webbing, a way could be found to rap off the top. Otherwise, a one rope rap route I'm sure about is Rise and Fall, although you have to find the top somehow and you may have to use a tree for the first rap on that one too. Aug 6, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
  5.12b/c C0
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
  5.12b/c C0
I'm pretty sure I've gone down this route a few times. If my memory serves me correctly I think it is actually the easiest rap on the main wall. There is maybe one pitch you need to traverse a bit but it's not a big deal. If you don't mind walking a bit further rapping from the top of heaven's gate is also really easy and might actually be shorter Aug 16, 2015
kerwinl  
Anybody ever climb this in the winter? Or have an idea of how dry it will be after short dry spells? Dec 3, 2015
Drewsky
  5.12b/c
Drewsky  
  5.12b/c
From what I remember, Swim is near enough the seasonal waterfall that it gets damp, but that might just mean the pitch off the ground. I would think any pitches free from the influence of the waterfall would dry pretty quickly in the sun unless there's other seepage issues. I'm not sure about the second pitch as to its proximity. It could be that the name 'Swim' is appropriate during the wet months. Dec 3, 2015

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