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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Andy DeKlerk
Page Views: 2,388 total · 20/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a very cool looking 6 pitch climb up the entire wall that breaches the Golden Arch at its apex arete! I'm only familiar with P1; all pitches, however, are bolted with the exception of P6, which is a 5.8 crack. The lower part of this route and others in this zone are often wet due to the waterfall until summer rolls around.

P1 (.12b/c) is a worthwhile goal in and of itself. It climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. Tricky, steep moves low in the corner are followed by pumpy overhanging climbing on sloping edges and pockets. Both angle and difficulty gradually ease on approach to the ledge/anchor. As mentioned in Blake's comment below, descent from the ledge via 70m is possible if done carefully.

P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.

P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.

P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.

P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.

P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.

Location

Start in the bolted black and white corner to the right of the waterfall.

Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks as though one could be left hanging in space! Bring a 70m rope and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.

Protection

Bolts. Gear for P6 and possible to supplement bolts and/or old fixed pins. Anchors appear fixed; however, bring webbing as many of them are sling belays.

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
If the first pitch is skipped by climbing up p1 of Davis-Holland and traversing across Madsen it goes at a fairly do-able 12a. This route deserves some traffic. Jul 4, 2014
Drewsky
  5.12c
Drewsky  
  5.12c
Did you ever try the 'direct' version of the arete on P4, Mikey? I still haven't been up there but I'm curious. Jul 4, 2014
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
 
I still haven't tried the 12c variation. I might be around in september and will check it out then. amazing position! Jul 7, 2014
Still haven't done this route, but I did spend an entire day scrubbing filth off the first pitch back in 06 or 07'. I thought it was pretty solid 12c. Brought Andrew Philbin up and watched him hike it Onsight several days later. Aug 1, 2015
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
I climbed the route yesterday with a buddy, every pitch was exciting and just clean enough to climb (a little clean up would definitely make the first pitch easier). I did unearth a few holds that appear to have never been used that were very handy for me. We added new quick links and rap rings to some of the anchors (P2, P3). P4 and P5 anchors have a nice new 1/2 inch bolt backing up the old bolts.

This route can be rappelled with a 70M cord, take care when rapping over the arch to maintain a swing or you can get stuck in space. May 2, 2016
The first pitch is a really classic sport climb on its own, with overhanging pockets and edges in a steep corner, and it deserves lots of traffic. I think it's pretty accurately graded (IE not a sandbag) if you aren't really short. Be careful with a 70m rope, as it is BARELY long enough to rappel this pitch from the anchor on the ledge. All the climbing that's harder than 5.10 comes in the first half of the pitch. Dec 28, 2017
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Sussed out the first pitch today. As I pulled up onto the well-chalked jug/flake just below the 3rd(?) bolt, it made an audible groan and creaked away from the wall. Moved past it and didn't yard on it again. Aside from being a key hold, it would be bad news if that thing ripped - just use caution if you're heading up there. May 3, 2018

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