Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,124 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
P1 (.12b/c) is a worthwhile goal in and of itself. It climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. Tricky, steep moves low in the corner are followed by pumpy overhanging climbing on sloping edges and pockets. Both angle and difficulty gradually ease on approach to the ledge/anchor. As mentioned in Blake's comment below, descent from the ledge via 70m is possible if done carefully.
P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.
P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.
P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.
P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.
P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.
Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks as though one could be left hanging in space! Bring a 70m rope and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.