Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches
FA: Andy DeKlerk
Page Views: 3,760 total · 20/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a very cool looking 6 pitch climb up the entire wall that breaches the Golden Arch at its apex arete! I'm only familiar with P1; all pitches, however, are bolted with the exception of P6, which is a 5.8 crack. The lower part of this route and others in this zone are often wet due to the waterfall until summer rolls around.

P1 (.12b/c) is a worthwhile goal in and of itself. It climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. Tricky, steep moves low in the corner are followed by pumpy overhanging climbing on sloping edges and pockets. Both angle and difficulty gradually ease on approach to the ledge/anchor. As mentioned in Blake's comment below, descent from the ledge via 70m is possible if done carefully.

P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.

P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.

P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.

P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.

P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.

Location Suggest change

Start in the bolted black and white corner to the right of the waterfall.

Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks as though one could be left hanging in space! Bring a 70m rope and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts. Gear for P6 and possible to supplement bolts and/or old fixed pins. Anchors appear fixed; however, bring webbing as many of them are sling belays.