Behind Closed Eyelids

A pretty hard and impressive route with two pitches of distinct character. The first (and harder) pitch begins as for Adrift but keeps traversing left under the roof into a LFC. When the corner peters out, use really cool features to reach a dinosaur-fin undercling. The very technical crux pulls the roof from there and establishes on a hanging slab. Some easier and steeper climbing brings you to a big ledge. The second pitch is the money pitch. It begins easily with some face climbing that brings you to a huge flake feature. Establish on the flake with difficulty and double-kneebar behind it for a while until it widens. From there you can pull into the corner or go out onto the face to reach the top. I like the face way personally, as the moves and exposure are rad and the bolts are easier to clip. The steep part of this pitch has permadraws. Please do this pitch- you won't soon forget it. Also, you can see it from very far away, prominently, if you know what you're looking at. Cool!

An historical note: P2 is a feature to the outside of a Mikey Schaefer aid climb circa 2000. We trundled a dangerous flake that we believe he aided in order to facilitate free-climbing. In a previous post of this climb, I forgot to credit Mikey with that. It seems that he was trying to get Cramer to include the route in Sky Valley Rock, but it got left out there too. I regret failing to mention it in the past, because his experience and methods are noteworthy, and it must be frustrating to have the route looked over twice. It's also interesting that we both had a vision of climbing this feature, but approached it in two different ways. The first pitch of his route (which I don't know the name of) climbs either what is now P1 of Adrift or part of P1 of Behind Closed Eyelids.

I've included Mikey's description sent to Cramer in the photos here.

Start as for Adrift and continue left instead of going straight through the roof.

~12 draws including a few runners. Two kneepads.