Type: Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 311 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.

P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)

This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)

P2: (didn't climb)

Location

Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing

Protection

Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
  5.11+ C0
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
  5.11+ C0
I freed this route with Sean Leary in August of 2010. By no mean the best route on the UTW but we had a fun outing.

Pitches break down as follows: 5.11d, 5.11b, 5.10, 5.10

Topo and trip report can be found here goo.gl/XuWl6N Jul 4, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Mikey, I added your topo here. Jul 5, 2014