Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sisu S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 291 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Fisher on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: October 8-9 LTW limited access. Details

Description

An old aid line that follows the waterfall up the UTW. P1 is a good alternate to Abraxus to access other UTW climbs like Golden Arch.

P1: Climb through the overhang on fixed pins and brass nuts. Move in to the left crack the leads to a trough. LA or Ball nut is key for 2-ish moves in the trough, as is a large hook. Follow the trough to a thin crack and easier terrain. The crack leads to a long corner. Bust some free moves with wretched rope drag to the anchor on Technicians of the Sacred (bolts)

This pitch has been climbed clean with ballnuts (C2+)

P2: (didn't climb)

Location

Follow the Upper Wall Trail to the main wall. Find the darkened rock that is usually under the waterfall on the UTW. look for a crack with a few fixed pins down low. Scramble up to the first pin and start climbing

Protection

Offset nuts (Brass and Al), offset cams, cams (TCU -#3) hooks, ballnuts or LA's

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
  5.11+ C0
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
  5.11+ C0
I freed this route with Sean Leary in August of 2010. By no mean the best route on the UTW but we had a fun outing.

Pitches break down as follows: 5.11d, 5.11b, 5.10, 5.10

Topo and trip report can be found here goo.gl/XuWl6N Jul 4, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Mikey, I added your topo here. Jul 5, 2014

More About Waterway

Printer-Friendly