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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Bang! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beat to Quarters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Call of Cthulhu, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Method of Reconciling Disparate Parts, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nobody Puts Baby In A Corner T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Rise and Fall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seven Sermons to the Dead S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sisu S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C0
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Whimper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Darryl Cramer, Carl Diedrich
Page Views: 1,583 total · 30/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on Jul 13, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Route description

From the right side of Madsens ledge(Fixe hangers-2013) climb 5 pitches to the summit. Rap down using new(2013) chain anchors down and climbers right of original top out . Pitch 4 traverses left for 30' or 40' All bolts.

Variation: After the small roof(crux) on P 3 move left and belay from chains on arete. Follow bolts straight up to chains crossing the traverse pitch of good girls about 3/4 of the way up(5.11). From there you can either continue on using small to medium gear to the summit(5.10/11) or move left and join P5 of Good Girls. Rap straight down variation line to join stations on Good Girls.

Photos

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Rafe  
This route description allows for the truest of onsights! Jul 19, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I think Tom got distracted. Hold on... Jul 19, 2014
kerwinl
  5.12a
kerwinl  
  5.12a
How are the bolts and anchors on this? I heard a rumor that they were recently retrod, but have not confirmed. Oct 19, 2015
Oct 25, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
 
There is now a bolted on starfish on P4, the 11d traverse pitch. I have no idea why it is there and it should be removed. This is one of the most absurd and ridiculous things I have ever seen climbing. There are also new and unnecessary bolts all over this pitch. They should also be removed.

And yes Kerwin there are new bolts on this. Some bolts have been moved as well some anchors. At a couple belays I found it best to actually belay on the older bolts as they are in better locations.

I've climbed this route a couple times and found it to be one of the most "climbable" hard routes on the upper wall. The cruxes are short and near the belay which make them fairly easy to redpoint.

Dec 1, 2015
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
Is the star fish on rise and fall or good girls ? Dec 9, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
 
Sorry, it is on Good Girls. screwed up the photo caption. Dec 10, 2015
Thomas Ramier
  5.12a
Thomas Ramier  
  5.12a
Actually Mikey's(really?) photo of the Starfish is not on Good girls at all. If you look at his photo you can see the bolt studs to the left and right that our venerable forbearers placed in order to aid across the blank space between Good Girls and Abraxas. If you had climbed the route before 2014 you may remember the ribbons of moldering webbing that were slung between the 5 bolts of that aid traverse. This served as the defacto belay for the start of pitch 4 which by way of it's position reduced the hardest climbing on that pitch at the start to an awkward aid move from a crappy and unnecessary hanging belay on the blank wall just after leaving the relatively comfortable stance in the corner a few feet below. Lame. Although you can still belay from higher up the stance in the corner is much more comfortable and it forces the climber to actually climb the route and the belayer doesn’t get an ass hat when they fail.

It’s also possible to aid across at the Starfish and gain the flake you can see in the picture. Just sling that lovely Asteriidae. It won’t mind. Consider the Starfish. Brass is the metallurgy of traditional climbing. It weathers well. It's nice to look at. It serves the same purpose as the three aid bolts and shit piles of old webbing it replaced. Maybe even better since it offers not one but a quintuplet of tie offs or sling positions. Patent pending.

No one is stopping Mikey or anyone else from responding to his call to arms to rush out and CHOP CHOP CHOP all the “new and unnecessary bolts”. In case you’re interested I assume he’s referring to all the 3/8" stainless bolts and Fixe hangers I used to re-bolt pitches 1-3 in the fall of 2013. I already removed most of the "new and unnecessary" hardware that was placed in the 90's(mostly 3/8" sleeve anchors in an alarming state of decay). 20-30 year old plated sleeve anchors found in Index are total crap and should not be trusted in general. I "wrench tested" and left a few bolts here and there at the anchors to make belays and transfers more efficient and comfortable. Personally I wouldn’t whip on those things but they’re great for positioning or clipping crap to. Most of the belays are semi hanging on this route. If one were a big time mountain chap one might be able to recognize and appreciate the utility of this thought unless perhaps ones reason were clouded by some unknown bias. He’s NOT referring to the scores of other random rusty junk all over the route or even the totally botched half drilled and slung bolt sticking out of pitch 4. On those items his persistent whining is uncharacteristically absent. The anchors, bolt count and clipping positions are the same as they always were. Don't believe the hype. Oh yeah, I also scrubbed the living shit out of the entire route top to bottom. So yeah, It's good to go Kerwin. At least for now.

I didn't bother with pitch 4 because honestly it just didn't appeal to me. It starts up directly enough but then takes a hogs share of the rock by traversing left for like 60' or 70' Wtf? My motivation to update the lower pitches was driven by the desire to find a more direct finish to an otherwise 5 star route. Did that. Two pitches straight to the top in line with the rest of the route. As good as it gets. Duh. It's Index. I guess it could be called a variation of Good Girls or Upper Abraxas. I've taken to calling it the Starfish bypass but ‘Mikey likes it’ has been gaining in popularity. Maybe an amalgamation of the two?

It starts from a new anchor just after the hard climbing ends on P3 of Good Girls(11c). The last pitch is 10 or 11ish and was done on gear for the FA but honestly who the hell wants to drag up a bunch of wedges on an otherwise fully bolted sporto for that? I'm going to finish bolting it this spring. Rap straight down with a single 70'. Maybe a 60' but I don't know because I don't own one. Mar 5, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Holy cow, it that solid brass?

It seems to blend in with the rock. As long as they don't spread much, it doesn't seem bad to have a unique anchor like that in some places.

Thanks Tom for the rebolting and cleaning on Good Girls, next time at the UTW I'd like to try the route. Mar 5, 2016
Mikey Schaefer
Redmond, OR
 
Mikey Schaefer   Redmond, OR
 
Tom- I guess I’d consider the starfish to be on Good Girls since it can be grabbed or stepped on while doing the crux moves of pitch 4. If the starfish was actually on a different pitch I’d probably care a lot less. But you are staring right at it while climbing.

And if you go back and read my post the only bolts I mentioned that are unnecessary are on P4 which are the bolts you placed for your variation. Your assumption that I am referring to the bolts on P1-3 is clearly wrong by my specific calling out of the bolts on p4. The place where I have problem with your bolts is where they actually cross the original P4. The bolts are right in the middle of an an existing pitch. More thought could of been given to where these bolts should of been placed to not interfere with an existing climb. The upper part of your variation pitch looks quite good and is a very natural finish to p4. And the final pitch you established looks good as well. I have zero problems with the sections that you bolted that are on previously un climbed terrain. My beef is adding bolts to an established line that already had adequate bolts and was the original line.

Your statement that all the clipping stances are the same is false. You clearly moved some of the bolts which is obvious due to the presence of the old bolt holes. Same goes for a couple of the anchors. The changes were minor but they were indeed changes which I feel weren’t improvements. I found a couple of the new bolt placements harder to clip as they were higher. I could reach the original bolt placements from the good holds but couldn’t reach the new bolts from the same stance. Taller people probably won’t even notice these changes but both me and my partner did.

Thanks for the hard work you did replacing the old bolts. In the end I just hope more people get on the UTW. It is a woefully under appreciated asset for Washington climbers.

It’s too bad that you take all of this personally and feel the need to resort to personal attacks. The discussion would be better served if we debated the specific actions and facts instead of our personal characters. Mar 19, 2016
Thomas Ramier
  5.12a
Thomas Ramier  
  5.12a
This route is finally drying out. I climbed it yesterday(7/7/16). The bottom few moves are still damp but mostly just the feet and it's possible to pull through if needed. The rest of the route is good to go.

Note: If anyone is planning to climb it soon let me know and I'll prioritize bolting the final pitch and getting my fixed line out of the way. Jul 7, 2016
Thomas Ramier
  5.12a
Thomas Ramier  
  5.12a
Why would anyone grab or step on the starfish? Rude.

In case anyone doesn't remember or know, the starfish is in the same location as what was once a hanging belay/horizontal aid ladder that crossed between GGLBB and a flake off to the left. Possibly Abraxas. This hanging belay was a total crap pile slung with many generations of rotting, knotted webbing. It was also in a ridiculous position, right in the middle of, and directly below the crux moves of P4 of GGLBB and offered total lack of even a soupçon of a belay stance. Interestingly it did however offer a convenient justification to simply reach through(aid) the hardest move on P4 which if blown could easy result in an ass hat for your partner.

So I have to ask again, why would one reach out, grab and or step on the starfish? Did the old belay offer the same temptation? Do bolts? Chains? It still serves as a way to aid across to Abraxas if that's your thing. If it helps, we could call it a memorial plaque. I got a list of dead homies. Anyway, ultimately it serves zero purpose other then perhaps offering an option to move left at that point and an unconventional way of tidying up the old, redundant aid ladder/belay.

I'm 5'8" in height. Probably just under the national average for an adult male. I tried, yesterday to see where the bolting would be more difficult for a climber shorter then myself. It was unclear. Maybe we use different clipping beta. Could you be more specific Mikey? The belay that I added for my direct finish was put up in a full down pour and I decided yesterday that I didn't really like the position and plan to move it. I'm always happy to revisit any bolts that exist. Placed by me or otherwise.



Jul 7, 2016
kerwinl
  5.12a
kerwinl  
  5.12a
Top notch climbing very continuous in nature, requires some good edging shoes and mental focus.

If you go up and plan to do the variation mentioned in the description (which is really good), bring a single set of cams from blue->red alien for the last pitch, you may not need them all but it is nice to have a few to choose from if you are onsighting. We brought two green aliens and found that a little more variety would have been nice. 15 draws and/or slings is required for the P4 variation.

There are a lot of bolt lines that leave madsens ledge and head up (with more being added at the time). The start of the route is located just to the right of the golden arch, look for two bolt hangers that are nearly horizontal with each other and a trend of bolts that angles up and slightly right before trending left to a two bolt anchor. There should be a two bolt anchor below the bolt line that you can belay from, but it tends to be a bit wet. An alternative belay can be had by placing gear in the horizontal cracks slightly higher up on the ledge above the two bolt anchor. Jul 18, 2016

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