Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: FFA: Luke Stefurak
Page Views: 545 total · 21/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Sep 29, 2019
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Description

As is fitting with this zone of Index the story of this route is slightly complicated. This route lies under the rap route that has been used in recent years to descend from Madsen's Ledge.

I remember a conversation with Randy Ladowski a year or two back about trying to free this piece of stone. There was a great deal of excitement despite the need for a large amount of scrubbing and excavation of moss.

This pitch starts on the Aid route abraxas but then branches into new free climbable terrain above a second roof at a smattering of knobs.

Randy's original free variation follows a pair of dikes on the right past three bolts which I found to be unreasonably difficult. To find the Gnostic Diversion instead clip the first bolt and balance up the slab on the left.  Once a second bolt is reached execute a difficult rightward boulder problem to rejoin the dikes. A few more tricky moves gain a vegetated ledge with a lower off anchor.

I expect a second pitch will be cleaned in the coming months but it's still a project.

Location

Walk to the upper town wall and then head right towards Sisu passing left facing corner of Technician of the Sacred. 

This route starts in a small left facing corner just right of a very large lake that sits just off the wall.

Protection

A single set of cams from .1 to #1 Camalot. I found a .2 X4 to be particularly helpful. You might want a couple cams in this size. Totem aficionados will want the Black. The largest brass DMM/HB offset nut or equivalent size seems very helpful.

Anchors are equipped for lowering. A 70m definitely works and I believe a 60m will too, but didn't try.

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