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Routes in Central Wall Area

Abraxas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3-4
Crying Dragon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Davis-Holland Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Arch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Green Drag-on T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2-3
Lovin' Arms T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rise and Fall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Starfish Enterprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swim T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Technicians of the Sacred S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Town Crier T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Waterway 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3-
Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Harder, Donn Heller
Page Views: 3,979 total, 32/month
Shared By: alpineH on Aug 1, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

An upper wall classic without the traffic you would expect from such a fun climb. With long corners, big roofs, tricky aid, and some free climbing, this 6 pitch route is a great warm up for Yosemite. It does get some runoff when the weather is wet.

Location

As you arrive at the wall after about 45min of hiking, look 30’ to the left. Either aid up the thin line or climb 5.9+ just left of that. You will see a beautiful long corner about 60’ up the wall, that is the second pitch!

Protection

Your basic aid rack with a few larger pieces.
kerwinl  
I climbed this the other weekend and noticed a few of the pins on P2 are in quite bad shape, I am unsure if they would hold a fall at this point. As I was free climbing and not aiding I cannot comment to whether they will hold body weight. I felt the gear above or below the pins was sufficient for protecting the free cilmbing enough to avoid using them entirely, although it does cause some moderate runouts to occur in the middle of the pitch (the climbing here felt mid 5.10 to me). If planning to aid, some replacement pitons may be in order... I am not the one to jugde if that is the case or not though.

If this pitch was at the lower town wall it would have an endless line, it is a really good pitch that demands finesse, flexibility and some power! The rest of the route is a little dirty, but clean enough for free climbing! As with most routes at Index, it delivers pure fun and thoughtful climbing on immaculate stone! Sep 15, 2016
Michael T Young
Seattle, WA
Michael T Young   Seattle, WA
I snapped a fix pin on pitch 2 by bounce testing it. It still goes clean but required a high placement. A friendly reminder to be wary of fixed pins in a wet corner =). May 9, 2016
Drewsky  
Agree with not belaying below the roof if free climbing. I foolishly linked P2-3 for a 70m stretcher that ended in some uncomfortable belaying for all involved. I also tried to link P4-5 from the stance Mikey mentioned before getting cooked off the P5 crux by the summer sun. I still think that link might be a good option as P4 feels short from the stance. May 12, 2015
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
  5.13- C1
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
  5.13- C1
The original belays used for the aid climb aren't really that ideal for free climbing. when i did it I moved things around a bit. I didn't stop at the bolts on top of pitch two, I continued climbing a bit farther and built a belay on smallish cams, maybe a purple/blue tcu size and a stopper or two. its a much better stance. This also makes it possible to skip the pitch 3 hanging belay underneath the roof. Keep climbing up the 5.10 corner and stop just below the 12c move. There is a small stance there and a single bolt that can be backed up with a #1 camelot ( or maybe #2... its been awhile). This makes working and sending the 12c pitch a lot easier on the climber and the belayer. Not sure why Justin didn't do it this way. its much more logical.


And as far as the difficulty goes of this thing, its definitely a modern grade of 13a. This isn't a classic Index sandbag.
Oct 17, 2014
kerwinl  
Here is the topo from Justin Sjong via RCNW.net

Oct 7, 2014
Drewsky  
Some beta for the free version:

P1: Really nice varied thin crack with a tricky friction crux at the top (.11a). Eats up stoppers like crazy but cams will work too.

P2: Hard start with a steep flake into a bolted corner leads to nice crack climbing with fixed pins and good gear. Crux upper flared corner (.12a) leads to a steep off-balance lieback section before easing off on the slab above. Bring a couple of small brass nuts for this pitch.

P3: Varied crack climbing leads through a steep section of gigantic hollow blocks (slightly scary). A tricky crux (.11a) at the top ends at an exposed, fully hanging belay.

P4: Exposed move around the roof to a right facing corner. Above a small stance, clip a bolt and continue to the left on tiny crimps past two more bolts (.12c). It's possible and a little more comfortable to belay at the small stance with a bolt and a green or red Camalot rather than the hanging belay under the roof.

P5: From the anchor, climb past 4 or 5 bolts via thin face climbing (.12d/.13-). Do not attempt this section in hot weather. The rest of the pitch is 5.10 crack climbing.

Rap the route with a single 70m rope or grovel up a dirty low 5th class ramp and walk off. Sep 26, 2012
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
The last pitch blows. The bolt ladder leads to a flaring dirty crack, worse than the last pitch of Town Crier, which also blows. Overall, I found this pretty straight forward. A double set of C3s and C4s and a single #4 was perfect; placed almost no nuts but used a cam hook a lot. Rapped the Town Crier anchors with a single 60. Aug 14, 2011
Drewsky  
Now free at .13- courtesy of Justen Sjong and Ben Gilkison. Jul 3, 2008