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Routes in Toxic - Tang Area

Even Steven T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Even Steven (lower left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geek Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roadside Floral Curtain S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Slapshot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
View from the Bridge, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Dan Lapeska, Dick Cilley
Page Views: 5,999 total · 41/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The set of cracks on the face to the right of Toxic Shock heading straight up from the ledge. Fun moves, fairly consistent difficulty, and distinct reachy cruxes (at least for short people like myself) make this a great climb. Approach the area as for Toxic Shock and climb either of the starts for Toxic Shock to reach the ledge.

Protection

Standard trad rack, but with emphasis on smaller gear. You probably want a #2 and #3 camalot for the standard approach (as for toxic shock). For the actual climb, I use 2 green aliens, 1 blue TCU, 1 yellow alien, 1 grey alien, and 1 purple camalot. You want to have stuff in this range, maybe a couple extra of some sizes just in case.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Thanks Douglas for the video.

And nice solid lead! Aug 4, 2013

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