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> Skykomish Valley
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> Toxic - Tang Area
Even Steven
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 160
votes
Routes in Toxic - Tang Area
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Even Steven T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Even Steven (bottom) and Toxic S- (variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geek Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Journey to the other side of the bridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roadside Floral Curtain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slapshot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stinkbug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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View from the Bridge, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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ZAP! Right between the Eyes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Dan Lapeska, Dick Cilley |
| Page Views: | 8,772 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Two issues:
1) The novel coronavirus and Index residents.
Residents of Index are very concerned about visitors spreading the virus to them. Please be considerate by taking some serious precautions such as
- Be extra safe to greatly reduce the chance of needing a rescue. (Choose partner carefully, just TR routes. Triple-check setups...)
- Do not interact with the people in town or on a trail. (Choose an obscure crag & route. Drive carefully through town.)
- In case the above two precautions fail or you come across someone on a trail or crag, bring a facemask and gloves to wear to prevent spreading the virus from your breath or hands. In lieu of a facemask, a bandana or scarf over the nose and mouth can also reduce the spread of fine droplets from your nose and mouth when you speak. Also, try to keep the 6-foot recommended distance from other people.
2) 2020 Seasonal raptor closure: Our resident pair of Peregrines selected a nest site on the 6th pitch of Sabbra Cadabra this year, similar to 2016 and 2018 nesting seasons. Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2020. This includes the upper pitches of Sabbra Cadabra, Black Radish, and Hell Bent for Glory.
Every spring, Washington State Parks, WDFW, Access Fund, and Washington Climbers Coalition partner to identify the nest site of Index's Peregrine falcons. Once identified, a spot closure is instituted around the selected nest site through approximately July 15th. Report potential raptor nesting activity to info@washingtonclimbers.org. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program each year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
1) The novel coronavirus and Index residents.
Residents of Index are very concerned about visitors spreading the virus to them. Please be considerate by taking some serious precautions such as
- Be extra safe to greatly reduce the chance of needing a rescue. (Choose partner carefully, just TR routes. Triple-check setups...)
- Do not interact with the people in town or on a trail. (Choose an obscure crag & route. Drive carefully through town.)
- In case the above two precautions fail or you come across someone on a trail or crag, bring a facemask and gloves to wear to prevent spreading the virus from your breath or hands. In lieu of a facemask, a bandana or scarf over the nose and mouth can also reduce the spread of fine droplets from your nose and mouth when you speak. Also, try to keep the 6-foot recommended distance from other people.
2) 2020 Seasonal raptor closure: Our resident pair of Peregrines selected a nest site on the 6th pitch of Sabbra Cadabra this year, similar to 2016 and 2018 nesting seasons. Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2020. This includes the upper pitches of Sabbra Cadabra, Black Radish, and Hell Bent for Glory.
Every spring, Washington State Parks, WDFW, Access Fund, and Washington Climbers Coalition partner to identify the nest site of Index's Peregrine falcons. Once identified, a spot closure is instituted around the selected nest site through approximately July 15th. Report potential raptor nesting activity to info@washingtonclimbers.org. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program each year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
Description
The set of cracks on the face to the right of Toxic Shock heading straight up from the ledge. Fun moves, fairly consistent difficulty, and distinct reachy cruxes (at least for short people like myself) make this a great climb. Approach the area as for Toxic Shock and climb either of the starts for Toxic Shock to reach the ledge.
Protection
Standard trad rack, but with emphasis on smaller gear. You probably want a #2 and #3 camalot for the standard approach (as for toxic shock). For the actual climb, I use 2 green aliens, 1 blue TCU, 1 yellow alien, 1 grey alien, and 1 purple camalot. You want to have stuff in this range, maybe a couple extra of some sizes just in case.
Some History
This nice crack line was first discovered and cleaned by Steve Strong. He was planning to do it after finishing up Toxic Shock, but was scooped by Lepeska and Cilley. The route name seems to suggest that they were somehow "getting back" at him for something, but no such prior event had ever been suggested. The "even" may just refer to the two parallel cracks.
At any rate, we should thank Steve for doing the main work to establish this line.
At any rate, we should thank Steve for doing the main work to establish this line.
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