Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Lowell Anderson, Dave Page, Jim Stoddard. FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 13,894 total, 97/month
Shared By: jonah on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


117 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

To the left of Godzilla, City Park, etc. Starts with a fun 10a section in a short left-facing dihedral. Trends right then back left and up a wide crack (protects great with a #3 Camalot). This "pitch" ends at chains, but the fun continues if you keep going to the next anchor. The wide section continues, with high steps and laybacking protected by a #4 Camalot. Two cruxes remain where the crack peters down to fingers then hands. Finish on a finger crack with big moves off edges and locks by stemming and traversing to the right. The route goes up another 2 pitches from here, but I'm embarassed to say I haven't done them. Please add comments below if you have - I just wanted to get the ball rolling with this description.

Protection

Doubles through #2 Camalots, single #3 and #4, some small nuts. Some people (Tripplet) lead the first pitch on about 6 pieces. Whatever. You can run TR laps if you hang a 70m rope, but make SURE you place a directional (#1 Metolius) to the left of the anchor or the rope will get completely jammed in the crack and you won't be able to move it at all.
I'll comment on pitches 3 & 4 since they don't get climbed often, but really deserve the traffic.
Pitch 3 (11a): is very similar to Slow Children and every bit as good -- Perfect splitter thin crack in a straight-in corner. Gear beta is the exact same as Slow. Crux moves even protect with a purple mastercam (just like Slow Children). Bring a green c4 to protect the move entering the finger crack.
Pitch 4 (11d): has some slabby moves followed by a finger crack to an left-arching seam. The seam (and crux) are protected by a mix of bolts and pins. The hardest moves have a bolt at waist to chest height. However, because of the arching nature of the route, you can't cheat through these moves. Be ready to crank hard through the slabby boulder problem. Over the last couple of years I have periodically brushed the route to keep it clean so it will always be safe and straight-forward. The route dries quickly after rain. One thing to beware of however, is a crux sloper seeps through the winter months.
After finishing the route, it is easiest to rap TPMV to the ground -- straight down. Jun 18, 2016
Douglas T  
 
The long pitch 1 (to the 2nd anchor) is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere, requiring wide cracks to finger/pin scars and solid face climbing. The gear is great too. Jul 5, 2013
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.11b/c
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.11b/c
A 60m will only work if you stop at the hanging belay half way up pitch 1. Mar 6, 2010
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
We were able to rap from the top of P3 using a 70m rope (one 60m may work too). Jul 12, 2009
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Above the first pitch, there are 3 more pitches of excellent 5.11 climbing:

Pitch 2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (.11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.

Pitch 3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (.11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.

Pitch 4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (.11c). Easier (.9) slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall.

As of '07 they are squeaky clean and climbable again thanks to mammoth cleaning efforts by Ben and Ryan. Kudos!

This climb, complete to the top of the wall, is absolutely *****! Jul 3, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
You can do just the first section at 5.9+ and stop at the chains. A small TCU is useful to protect the last move before the chains. This is a fine, short outing requiring a bunch of different techniques. For protection bring one set of cams TCUs-#4 Camalot and some nuts. Jul 2, 2006