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Routes in Main Wall, left side

5.12 Index Ave. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leaping Lizards (Godzilla P2) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986
Page Views: 9,381 total · 79/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in '86. It has a storied history of free ascents and attempts, notably by Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used prosthetics that he invented and designed himself to do a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt also completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 90's. Mike Schaeffer made what may be the first "true" redpoint ascent in '06, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder (.10b) that leads to the base of the crack. Continuously difficult and painful first digit jams (.13d) lead to easier (.11) climbing. The crux is probably the unrelenting nature of the moves.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed "approach pitch" to Slow Children can also be approached via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing above. Most parties end at the anchor below Sloe Children.

P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. The pitch has reportedly been cleaned recently and is climbable.

Location

Start on the bolt ladder left of Godzilla that leads into the obvious thin crack.

Protection

Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolted anchor at the top of P4.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I have not redpointed this route, but I did severely sprain my left index finger on the 5.11 section at the top. Having small fingers, steel fingertips, superglue and a certain degree of masochism is a good combination for success on this route. Dec 29, 2008
Todd Skinner didn't have small fingers; but, he did have an exceptional work ethic. Jun 11, 2011
Brett Thompson
Washington State
Brett Thompson   Washington State
Good observation Ben, Skinner was in it to win it. Jun 15, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Did P2 while doing the Godzilla -> City Park -> Sloe Children linkup. Fun pitch. Thin and balancey off the belay to the mantel, and then into crusing hands. Make sure you bring some small nuts (big brass HB offsets or small BDs) for this pitch. Jun 18, 2011
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Realized that the above "small fingers" statement seems in poor taste in light of recent events. As Rock and Ice has quoted it in an article, I want to point out that it was meant as a stupid joke. I truly despise the use of differences in body type and size to disparage climbing achievements, particularly female ascents. Call to mind Lynn Hill's FFA of the nose and the male slander that followed for an example of this. In no way, shape or form did I intend the comment to detract from anyone's accomplishment on this route. For the record, I do not think finger size has any bearing on how hard this route is. This route is hard because it's hard, and a free ascent is a huge accomplishment for anyone. Sep 5, 2018

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