Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
FA: Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986
Page Views: 16,487 total · 114/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in 1986. It has a storied history of free ascents and attempts. Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used prosthetics that he designed and fabricated, completed a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 1990s. Mikey Schaeffer made the first redpoint ascent in the contemporary accepted style in 2006, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder that leads to the base of the crack. The crack is consistently difficult until it relents at the top, although a left-jogging section above an undercling is particularly challenging.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed approach pitch to Slow Children can also be accessed via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing and an anchor on a ledge below the initial corner of Slow Children.

P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. Another option above Slow Children is the excellent Tommy's Sandbox, a fine .11a outing with nicely varied climbing.

Location

Start on the bolt ladder left of Godzilla that leads into the obvious thin crack.

Protection

Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolted anchor at the top of P4.

Photos