Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986
Page Views: 9,767 total · 81/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 28, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in '86. It has a storied history of free ascents and attempts, notably by Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used prosthetics that he invented and designed himself to do a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt also completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 90's. Mike Schaeffer made what may be the first "true" redpoint ascent in '06, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder (.10b) that leads to the base of the crack. Continuously difficult and painful first digit jams (.13d) lead to easier (.11) climbing. The crux is probably the unrelenting nature of the moves.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed "approach pitch" to Slow Children can also be approached via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing above. Most parties end at the anchor below Sloe Children.

P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. The pitch has reportedly been cleaned recently and is climbable.

Location

Start on the bolt ladder left of Godzilla that leads into the obvious thin crack.

Protection

Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolted anchor at the top of P4.

Photos

Drewsky
  5.13d
Drewsky  
  5.13d
I have not redpointed this route, but I did severely sprain my left index finger on the 5.11 section at the top. Having small fingers, steel fingertips, superglue and a certain degree of masochism is a good combination for success on this route. Dec 29, 2008
Todd Skinner didn't have small fingers; but, he did have an exceptional work ethic. Jun 11, 2011
Brett Thompson
Washington State
Brett Thompson   Washington State
Good observation Ben, Skinner was in it to win it. Jun 15, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Did P2 while doing the Godzilla -> City Park -> Sloe Children linkup. Fun pitch. Thin and balancey off the belay to the mantel, and then into crusing hands. Make sure you bring some small nuts (big brass HB offsets or small BDs) for this pitch. Jun 18, 2011
Drewsky
  5.13d
Drewsky  
  5.13d
Realized that the above "small fingers" statement seems in poor taste in light of recent events. As Rock and Ice has quoted it in an article, I want to point out that it was meant as a stupid joke. I truly despise the use of differences in body type and size to disparage climbing achievements, particularly female ascents. Call to mind Lynn Hill's FFA of the nose and the male slander that followed for an example of this. In no way, shape or form did I intend the comment to detract from anyone's accomplishment on this route. For the record, I do not think finger size has any bearing on how hard this route is. This route is hard because it's hard, and a free ascent is a huge accomplishment for anyone. Sep 5, 2018