Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,237 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kerwin Loukusa on May 4, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start via Sagittarius, but continue straight up through into thin flake, where Sagittarius cuts hard left. After a great rest, some strenuous layback moves and a few bolts lead to and under-cling mini roof, from here cut right to join P1 of TPMV via a few reachy moves.

Note the under-cling above the thin flake stays damp for a long time after rain, this is where you place your piece to protect the moves to rejoin TPMV. Worth taking a look from the ground before embarking.

Location

Starts on Sagittarius, look for the huge flake system in the middle of the wall, bordered by the thin crack of Iron Horse to the left and the iconic corner of Japanese Gardens to the right.

Protection

Doubles of #0.3-#0.5, singles #0.75-#3, plus 3-4 draws for the bolts and fixed gear on route. Save at least one finger size piece for the last bit before anchor(0.3 or 0.4). If wide handcracks are not your thing, bring one extra big hands piece for the start on Sag (#3).

Be sure to extend your pieces properly at the start, under the roof and once you rejoin TPMV or you can get some pretty heinous rope drag.

Photos

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