Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 811 total · 18/month
Shared By: kerwinl on May 4, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start via Sagittarius, but continue straight up through into thin flake, where Sagittarius cuts hard left. After a great rest, some strenuous layback moves and a few bolts lead to and under-cling mini roof, from here cut right to join P1 of TPMV via a few reachy moves.

Note the under-cling above the thin flake stays damp for a long time after rain, this is where you place your piece to protect the moves to rejoin TPMV. Worth taking a look from the ground before embarking.

Location

Starts on Sagittarius, look for the huge flake system in the middle of the wall, bordered by the thin crack of Iron Horse to the left and the iconic corner of Japanese Gardens to the right.

Protection

Doubles of #0.3-#0.5, singles #0.75-#3, plus 3-4 draws for the bolts and fixed gear on route. Save at least one finger size piece for the last bit before anchor(0.3 or 0.4). If wide handcracks are not your thing, bring one extra big hands piece for the start on Sag (#3).

Be sure to extend your pieces properly at the start, under the roof and once you rejoin TPMV or you can get some pretty heinous rope drag.

Photos

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The two bolts near the wafer flake were added with the FA's permission. The undercling moves rightward to join TPMV are trivial (jug-to-jug) if you're over 5'10" or so, and become a desperate boulder problem if you're short, making this more like solid 5.12 or 5.12+. May 12, 2015
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
I have a 5'8 wingspan, and can just barely (fingertips to fingertips, face pressed against the rock) reach jug-to-jug when exiting into TPMV. Not trivial, though; this move definitely still feels like the crux. As Blake notes, it would be much, much harder if you could not reach between the jugs.

An excellent route, and highly recommended. Apr 12, 2016
Eric Hirst
  5.12a/b
Eric Hirst  
  5.12a/b
The crux for me is after it joins TPMV. On TR at least, it felt like 11+ to the junction, 12- above. Sep 30, 2018