Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 562 total, 18/month
Shared By: kerwinl on May 4, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Start via Sagittarius, but continue straight up through into thin flake, where Sagittarius cuts hard left. After a great rest, some strenuous layback moves and a few bolts lead to and under-cling mini roof, from here cut right to join P1 of TPMV via a few reachy moves.

Note the under-cling above the thin flake stays damp for a long time after rain, this is where you place your piece to protect the moves to rejoin TPMV. Worth taking a look from the ground before embarking.

Location

Starts on Sagittarius, look for the huge flake system in the middle of the wall, bordered by the thin crack of Iron Horse to the left and the iconic corner of Japanese Gardens to the right.

Protection

Doubles of #0.3-#0.5, singles #0.75-#3, plus 3-4 draws for the bolts and fixed gear on route. Save at least one finger size piece for the last bit before anchor(0.3 or 0.4). If wide handcracks are not your thing, bring one extra big hands piece for the start on Sag (#3).

Be sure to extend your pieces properly at the start, under the roof and once you rejoin TPMV or you can get some pretty heinous rope drag.

Photos

- No Photos -
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
I have a 5'8 wingspan, and can just barely (fingertips to fingertips, face pressed against the rock) reach jug-to-jug when exiting into TPMV. Not trivial, though; this move definitely still feels like the crux. As Blake notes, it would be much, much harder if you could not reach between the jugs.

An excellent route, and highly recommended. Apr 12, 2016
The two bolts near the wafer flake were added with the FA's permission. The undercling moves rightward to join TPMV are trivial (jug-to-jug) if you're over 5'10" or so, and become a desperate boulder problem if you're short, making this more like solid 5.12 or 5.12+. May 12, 2015