Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 620 total · 12/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Dec 16, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb out right past a flake (5.8) or directly up past 3 bolts (5.11-) to a ledge, which can be reached via a long rightward traverse from Princely Ambitions. (if you've approached this way, it's easy to build a gear belay on the ledge). Stem up the white overhanging corner, placing gear and clipping a bolt before a stem and mantle out left (crux). Trend up and left of the quartz intrusion, using bomber small cams and wires (bring runners) and generally looking around for side-to-side options on knobs and flakes. Clip one (replaced) bolt and move up to the anchor on face holds.
From the anchor atop full Iron Horse (also reached via many other routes)

Location

Begin from atop Full Iron Horse/Full Amandla. It's easy to get here also via Sag. (climbed through the Iron Horse roof). If you don't mind missing the first 20' of the pitch, you can reach this by traversing right from Princeley Ambitions, and making a gear belay on the ledge just above the bolted anchors.

Protection

Rack to #1 or #2, doubles in tips and finger cams. Wires and runners.

Photos

- No Photos -
Johan
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
Thanks Blake for uncovering and promoting this moderate pitch! Haven't yet tried it, but as a heads up: the "Description" properly says that one reaches this pitch by traversing right from Princely. The "Location" currently says "traversing left from Princely", which is wrong. Dec 23, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Johan, I fixed it to "right". Dec 24, 2014