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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 495 total · 13/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Dec 16, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Climb out right past a flake (5.8) or directly up past 3 bolts (5.11-) to a ledge, which can be reached via a long rightward traverse from Princely Ambitions. (if you've approached this way, it's easy to build a gear belay on the ledge). Stem up the white overhanging corner, placing gear and clipping a bolt before a stem and mantle out left (crux). Trend up and left of the quartz intrusion, using bomber small cams and wires (bring runners) and generally looking around for side-to-side options on knobs and flakes. Clip one (replaced) bolt and move up to the anchor on face holds.
From the anchor atop full Iron Horse (also reached via many other routes)

Location

Begin from atop Full Iron Horse/Full Amandla. It's easy to get here also via Sag. (climbed through the Iron Horse roof). If you don't mind missing the first 20' of the pitch, you can reach this by traversing right from Princeley Ambitions, and making a gear belay on the ledge just above the bolted anchors.

Protection

Rack to #1 or #2, doubles in tips and finger cams. Wires and runners.

Photos

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Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Johan, I fixed it to "right". Dec 24, 2014
Johan
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
Thanks Blake for uncovering and promoting this moderate pitch! Haven't yet tried it, but as a heads up: the "Description" properly says that one reaches this pitch by traversing right from Princely. The "Location" currently says "traversing left from Princely", which is wrong. Dec 23, 2014

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