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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro
Page Views: 2,402 total, 21/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The truncated first pitch climbs an arch with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a). The full first pitch continues via technical stemming on knobs in a shallow groove, then moves left to an anchor (5 bolts; .12b).

The second pitch follows a bolted ramp past knobs to a tough balance move (.11d). 4 or 5 bolts; thin gear is needed to protect the balance move (nuts, 00-0 TCU's).

Location

Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.

Protection

Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.

Photos

JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
"Ratskins" variation, 12a:

Climb up the majority of Batskins normally, clipping the first two bolts in the 5.12 part. Before reaching the last (third) bolt, cut left at the large "basketball" knob and angle directly toward the anchor using small knobs and sidepull edges. The third bolt can be clipped by leaning way right after gaining the juggy wafer flake, or you can just skip it and climb to the anchor. The protection for the new sequence is entirely adequate with only the first two bolts clipped.

This variation skips the hard, cryptic, spanny final crux at the last bolt of Batskins and replaces it with a fairly straightforward (and enjoyable) knob crimping sequence. With the upper crux avoided, the hardest moves on this variation are probably those moving past the 1st bolt. All told, it feels about 12a to do it this way. A good step easier than the standard LTW 12b's: Stern, Numbah Ten, Batskins, etc. Harder than TPMV (the 11d version), Tantric Bazooka, or Iron Horse. Probably comparable to Like Honey in difficulty (though very different in style), and a candidate for the most approachable 5.12 at the LTW.

I found this new sequence last Thanksgiving when trying the route with Chris Tyrell. While struggling to figure out the last crux, I happened to swing left and notice "There are holds over here!". We quickly figured out a sequence, and Chris dispatched it that weekend. I didn't have time to try it again that weekend, so I ended up waiting until the first weekend of this spring to do it.

I'm not sure if it has previously been done this way, although the initial dirtiness and coarse texture of the edges suggested that they had not seen much/any human contact before. They have since cleaned up nicely. Some others who have tried this new way have commented that it is basically a different route, and that doing it this way isn't really doing Batskins. Hence, to signify the difference, "Ratskins".

I'd recommend this route to anyone looking to break into LTW 5.12. It is at the bottom end of the grade (for Index, at least), and any climbing above 11a is comfortably protected by bolts. You can drop a TR to check out Batskins or Ratskins by swinging hard left from the Godzilla anchor. Apr 12, 2016
P1 actually has 3 protection bolts not 5. They protect the 5.12 stemming and face climbing. The lower climbing on P1 is gear protected.

P2 is a seldom-done classic. It can easily be reached without leading P1 by rapping 10m diagonally left from atop Godzilla.

2 bolts protect the first balance crux, stemming off knobs. The topo in SVR shows 3 bolts through this section, and the existing 2 bolts seem a little oddly-placed for freeclimbing. The upper crux protects great with small cams or wires, as well as a 3rd bolt which is clipped just after the crux. This is also new hardware, and it also replaced an old bolt drilled as an aid piece. I thought the location would be better a foot or two lower (or pre hang a draw) for free climbing. This pitch ends at a belay directly above the P1 anchors on J. Gardens. May 3, 2014