Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dick Cilley, David Rosenfeld
Page Views: 1,146 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This short but fun climb has two cruxes: one passing a bolt low on the route and another reaching and clipping the anchor at the top. Some think that clipping the chains is the hardest 'move' on the route. This route includes knobs, face and crack climbing in its 40 feet and is very worthwhile. The gear for the top section, although a bit tricky to see, is quite good. The 'sort of serious' rating is vis-a-vis the fact that the beginning 10-15 feet is unprotected and has some questionable rock. The climbing in this section is easier than the rest of the route, however. Additionally, the shorter you are, the more difficult the bolt is to clip.

Location

Right of Japanese Gardens, this route shares the same start as Bat Skins, but instead of traversing right continues straight up past a bolt and gear to an anchor with chains.

Protection

One bolt and gear to one or two inches. While the top crux used to be hard to protect, modern cams make it quit safe although placing them is still a challenge. Don't bother with the old circlehead nearby (except for nostalgic purposes): a much more trustworthy Alien, TCU, or C3 (depending on brand preference) is available nearby.

Photos

Despite my initial judgments this climb has bomber and abundant protection. Awesome moves. A purple metolius protects the move above the bolt very well. Mar 8, 2018
Matt Carroll
Pittston, PA
Matt Carroll   Pittston, PA
Bolt is straightforward to clip. Although I haven’t done them all, this is quite possibly the best route at the lower town wall. Highly underappreciated cerebral and poetic movement-a true reflection of the index style of climbing! Nov 17, 2018