Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: P1 short: Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson. P1 full: Terry Lien, Max Dufford, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 6,138 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Apr 12, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Description

This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump (thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos.

As of 2018, there is now a lower-off anchor at a no-hands rest at 35 m, allowing one to lower off with a 70-m rope.
Otherwise, the descent requires two raps to the ground, stopping at the first anchor, or a lower one on the neighboring route.

Location

Just right of Princely Ambitions

Protection

You can slot an inverted small carabiner in the hole before the first bolt, but may cause rope drag problems. You will want some gear to fill in the gaps between the bolts on the upper section.
danelle
Seattle, WA
danelle   Seattle, WA
If you are short, it may take a little magical levitation. It took me SO long to get this move by getting my feet up really high and reaching for the crimp. I tried this move many many times with the same beta, but somehow i just magically levitated this last time. Jun 21, 2008
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The sideways dyno to the ledge is indeed shoulder wrenching; I found that it is possible to climb via stemming moves directly above the first bolt, with the crux being shifting one's weight over to the aforementioned ledge. Although I haven't led it this way, the (first) bolt would be no more than 3 feet beneath you, so it's a viable option for those of us under 5'11". Jul 13, 2008
dcramer  
There are only two bolts (about 6' apart) on the section above the first anchor and the climbing above them is non-trivial. Jul 14, 2008
danelle
Seattle, WA
danelle   Seattle, WA
Yeah the stemming move is the way if you are under 5'3... Jul 19, 2008
Eric Hirst
5.11c
Eric Hirst  
5.11c
A #2 Camp Ball nut (Lowe Ball) really helps above the last bolt on the upper section, especially if the seep up there is seeping.

The upper section feels quite a bit easier to me (11a?) than the lower section, although maybe my slab skills haven't kept up. The rock quality on the final moves feels a little spooky to me though. I've finished straight up (R of the bush) both times I've done this. Sep 28, 2009
Gabe S
 
Gabe S  
 
The lower pin pulled out on a lead fall in 2010-2011, the leader took a long whipper. It has since been replaced with a SS bolt. This was done to protect the flake. Hammering a new piton in would have broken the flake, causing a serious change to the nature of the climb.

FYI...The old pin was only hammered in about 1/3 of an inch. So all you who took falls and lowered off it for 15 years, thank your lucky stars.

The first half of the climb gets 4 stars...The second gets 3 stars after a slight cleaning. The upper section of the climb has had both bolts replaced and the anchor replaced in the past 3 years....Enjoy! Mar 25, 2013
I just did the full pitch and found my 70 too short (by about 10 meters) to lower from the upper anchors. I'm fairly confident there are no other anchors I missed, and the way I did the route was definitely 5 stars all the way, so probably the proper line. Either way, watch your ends when lowering... You can easily pull the rope and rethread at the lower anchors if it is too short for the upper. Jul 6, 2013
Far better when done as one long pitch. The old stump is gone, the old bolts higher up replaced and the pulled pin replaced with a bolt. 70 Meter ropes are the standard at Index now so why stop early. Keep going. It's beautiful up there.
Aug 18, 2013
The full P1 is ~40m (80m barely lowers off). You can easily lower to the short (~15m up) anchors on Model Worker or the anchors atop Numbah Ten and belay from either before rapping. Several moves before the short MW anchor each feels harder to me than the moves on the 2nd part of the pitch, thought I think the 2nd part of the pitch has better climbing.

A good 5.11 continuation is via Tadpole and Newest Industry. Nov 25, 2013
kerwinl
  5.11c
kerwinl  
  5.11c
For the full pitch a single rack from Purple C3 -> BD#2 + a few extra in the 0.2-0.4 range should be sufficient. Bring a few slings to extend placements up near the top of the pitch. Jun 6, 2014
The hardest move for me is the rockover at the second bolt of the first pitch. I stuck it once (out of god knows how many tries) only to fall off the foot switch move right after. Any beta on how to improve my odds on that move? Jun 19, 2015
Stig .
Seattle
  5.11c
Stig .   Seattle
  5.11c
"That route looks awesome." ~Sonnie Trotter Sep 21, 2015
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Kerwin's rack beta is spot on. Doubles to 0.4 and singles to #2 was just right to let you always have the gear you need, but not carry an excess amount.

I lowered to the ground from the upper anchor with an 80, and got down with ~2 meters to spare. Knot the end! Oct 26, 2015
Agree with Chris on the quality of the full pitch. With Mountain Project's star scale, I definitely give the full thing all 4 stars and the first half 3. No reason not to do the full thing - it's a blast up there!
Also agree with Kerwin on the gear beta. You'll probably want to extend most of your gear placements above the first half so bring plenty of runners. Jun 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
If you like this route, you may like the similar route at Private Idaho even more.
mountainproject.com/route/1…

900 follows a straighter line and has slightly easier moves. Jul 13, 2018