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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Terry Lien, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 5,475 total, 38/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Climb the splitter cracks from the top of Pitch 1 on princely ambitions. The crux comes at about 50 feet just before a ledge at the base of a corner/chimney. This feature can be either climbed directly or liebacked. It is a little bit friskier to lie it back, you can't really reach the crack to place gear. Near the end of the lieback as it starts to get slopey, you may either discover a really cool trick to make the final move easy, or you may go for a good ride.

Location

Just right of pitch 2 on princely ambitions

Protection

Gear to 2 inches

Photos

AhK
 
AhK  
 
Great stemming and liebacking at the beginning with great locks. Green Alien/red C3 is perfect for the crux and a bomber nut can be had right before starting the lieback at the top. I agree that the description of the last section is spot on. Spicy but safe! Mar 29, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Did this one on TR for the first time last weekend. Very enjoyable finger crack to start with followed by a fun sequence into the chimney.

Instead of doing the layback, I stayed inside the flare and found it suprisingly secure to chimney, but my partner, who is several inches taller, got spat out pretty quickly so maybe not the best strategy for taller folks.

The gear I used inside the chimney was a .5 at the base of the flare, then a blue alien and medium-size nut. Other combinations of smaller gear are possible in there. Aug 2, 2010
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
EXCELLENT ROUTE and Great description of the last section of the climb:) Apr 12, 2010