Type: Trad
FA: Terry Lien, Greg Olsen
Page Views: 5,886 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Climb the splitter cracks from the top of Pitch 1 on princely ambitions. The crux comes at about 50 feet just before a ledge at the base of a corner/chimney. This feature can be either climbed directly or liebacked. It is a little bit friskier to lie it back, you can't really reach the crack to place gear. Near the end of the lieback as it starts to get slopey, you may either discover a really cool trick to make the final move easy, or you may go for a good ride.

Location

Just right of pitch 2 on princely ambitions

Protection

Gear to 2 inches

Photos

Aaron Collins
Spring, TX
 
Aaron Collins   Spring, TX
 
EXCELLENT ROUTE and Great description of the last section of the climb:) Apr 12, 2010
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Did this one on TR for the first time last weekend. Very enjoyable finger crack to start with followed by a fun sequence into the chimney.

Instead of doing the layback, I stayed inside the flare and found it suprisingly secure to chimney, but my partner, who is several inches taller, got spat out pretty quickly so maybe not the best strategy for taller folks.

The gear I used inside the chimney was a .5 at the base of the flare, then a blue alien and medium-size nut. Other combinations of smaller gear are possible in there. Aug 2, 2010
AhK
 
AhK  
 
Great stemming and liebacking at the beginning with great locks. Green Alien/red C3 is perfect for the crux and a bomber nut can be had right before starting the lieback at the top. I agree that the description of the last section is spot on. Spicy but safe! Mar 29, 2013