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Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Carpenter, Pat McNerthney, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 12,313 total · 86/month
Shared By: Jesse James on Apr 15, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This splitter finger crack has its hardest moves at the very start and the very end, though is pretty continuous throughout. It follows a shallow corner that switches sides a few times.

Start by traversing or directly mounting a flake in the left-facing corner. You can place a good piece here(.4 camalot), then make a strenuous move to get to good finger locks in a right facing corner. A short stemming section is encountered before the final splitter crack in a left facing corner.


There are two finishing pitches to choose from. the left one, Timmy's Sandbox, is around 5.11-, and the right one may be 5.10.

Location

The most popular way to get to this pitch is by taking godzilla, then Pitch 2 of city park. This dumps you right at the base.

Protection

LOTS of small cams!!! Nuts don't work in this crack very well.

I think I may have used 4 yellow aliens.

Photos

Probably the best 5.10 on the planet Jun 18, 2016
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
 
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
 
First time I climbed this, I followed it. When my leader was about 20 feet up, it started to rain lightly. Sure enough, at the upper crux a BNSF freight came by and game him the train crux as well.

I've done this 3 times and still haven't figured out the last moves. One of the hardest 5.10 pitches I've done anywhere, and harder than Thin Fingers in my book. Bring lots of blue/yellow Metolius-sized. Oh yeah, it's AMAZING climbing with phenomenal views. Don't miss it. Mar 16, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
In response to Jellis above:
"2. There are several spots to place nuts on the pitch, and I think you could protect all but one or two sections reasonably well with nuts."

True. And nuts is all we had on the first ascent! (Though we put in a fixed pin at the start.) But I couldn't do it now with only nuts, particularly the last section. A small TCU is sooo nice for the last move. Jul 31, 2013
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
  5.10d
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
  5.10d
1. I took triples of blue and yellow tcus, and four orange tcus. I think I only used two of the oranges.

2. There are several spots to place nuts on the pitch, and I think you could protect all but one or two sections reasonably well with nuts.

3. Getting off the ledge is balancy and reachy. I can imagine for shorter folk it could be very difficult. Fortunately for those people there's a conveniently placed bolt hanger that you can stand on.

4. That last move out of the top dihedral is......feisty. Jul 31, 2013
The crack takes decent stoppers.BITD I took a 30 foot lob from the top moves onto one (damn train/firing range) and it held fine. May 19, 2013
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
earl mcalister   Las Vegas, NV
This is the best pitch I've ever done, anywhere. The crack and gear is perfect (with some spice off the ledge), the scenes are beautiful, and the exposure is excellent. Can't recommend this enough. Dec 16, 2012
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
The route "An act of strange boar" at Lookout Point is very similar to Slow Children, but shorter and slightly thinner. It's also right off the ground, so if you don't want to do the approach pitches for SC, you can quickly test yourself on Strange Boar. Mar 26, 2012
In the guide Jeff and I wrote (1980s) and in Jeff's subsequent guide it was Slow Children. For some reason I thought it had to do with the band and changed it in Sky Valley Rock. I am pretty sure Smoot just followed my lead his latest guide. Sep 19, 2011
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
About the name of this route, it is "Slow Children", not "Sloe". The name was based on its proximity to City Park.

The 1993 Clint Cummins guide had the name right ( stanford.edu/~clint/index/i…), but Smoot and Cramer mistakenly thought the name referred to the rock band "Sloe Children", which had a hit at about the same time as the route went up.
(Update, Sept 26: Route name corrected.)

Terry and I cleaned the route off on a wet winter day in mixed rain and snow, and then we climbed it on a later sunny day in two parties. Terry had a gun-barrel wire brush that worked wonderful for cleaning the inside of the crack. Perhaps that's one reason the route stayed clean long enough to become popular.

I think it's fantastic that the route has seen so many ascents. Enjoy the finger jams! Sep 19, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d
Superb pitch. And despite being a finger crack most of the way, the climbing is amazingly varied.

If this is at your limit, bring alot of small cams. One could throw a truckload of blue, yellow, and orange mastercams at this thing (with the occasional smaller and bigger). The crack is quite parallel, and nuts will work - but you'll be working for them. You also get a few no hands rests, fortunately.

Getting established in the crack was surprisingly balancely the way we did it - walking your feet along the ledge. And that first jam is just... out.... of ..... reach....

Enjoy!

(60m rope is fine for rapelling this and P2 of City Park). Double ropes recommended for the last rap down Godzilla. Jun 17, 2011
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
The best route I've ever been on!! Jan 13, 2011
michal
Everett WA
  5.10d
michal   Everett WA
  5.10d
Sloe children is a supper classic climb that to me is perfect. two sets of small cams would be great. pink tri cams are great too. Oct 29, 2009
Not a typo, but as for the significance ... I'm not sure. May 15, 2008
Russ  
The freight train crux makes the experience complete!
I can not remember topping out without the train, you might want to hang out in the upper dihedral and wait for one to come so you may have the pleasure of doing the upper crux ...properly. Jan 31, 2007
john stiles
Bellingham
 
john stiles   Bellingham
 
one of the funnest pitches i've ever done! go do it! Sep 17, 2006