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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Child, Greg Collum
Page Views: 6,768 total, 47/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The second bolted line to the right of the tunnel, identifiable by the fixed pin at the start. Follows a discontinuous line of flakes up a steep face. The crux comes about halfway up at a slabby reach move before getting into a juggy flake that leads to easier climbing above. Sustained, fun, thought provoking climbing. It is exposed and dries quickly, and is climbable in low temps.

Protection

Bomber new bolts and one fixed pin. Chains at the top.

Photos

Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b/c
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b/c
Fine route! Zigzags more than expected, using an extended alpine instead of a standard QD on a couple of the bolts helps with drag. All the bolts looked new, carabiners at the anchor were the oldest equipment but seemed fine. Easier than expected, I've felt closer to falling on some of the 5.9s around Index, but there was a hold I jumped for instead of using some poor smears.
Extremely fun though and the bottom half stays hidden in the shade! Jun 8, 2017
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This was rebolted recently. That's great, but whoever did it left all the old broken studs in place instead of punching them in and filling the holes. Clay on the upper wall and the Amandla on the lower wall have had this treatment as well. People doing rebolting need to understand that the job isn't finished until the old holes are filled, with new bolts or otherwise. Perhaps in this case they simply haven't gotten to that step yet. Feb 5, 2016
Dance Party
Seattle, Wa
 
Dance Party   Seattle, Wa
 
Felt hard for the grade. Had 2 distinct cruxes with good rests right before. Awesome climb that i'm looking forward to repeating. Sep 1, 2013
Allison Herrington
Leavenworth
5.10c/d
Allison Herrington   Leavenworth
5.10c/d
This climb is fun and captivating. An Index classic at the Country.

I would discourage one from placing a TCU or alien behind the block below the pin. That large block is loose and flexes if you bounce test the piece (I did this on top rope).

You can sling the flake to protect between the pin and the 1st bolt. Sep 1, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.10c/d
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.10c/d
A tcu or alien can protect the moves below the fixed pin, but be aware that the block you are placing it behind is less than solid. If you take up a #.4 Camelot, you can get a bomber piece in a slot around to the right once you move above the pin (before the first bolt).

If you are short, taking the "ramp" variation from the bolt below the crux is worth considering: Step left to gain a small shelf for your hands, smear the feet, then reach straight up to for a small horizontal slot rather than going for the reachy hold straight up the shallow corner to the right of the bolt.

A tiny tcu can be placed in the horizontal seam below the crux bolt (under the arch) if you aren't sure you can reach the bolt without some effort. It's touch of a stretch for me --I'm 5' 1"-- but it shouldn't be a problem for most folks. Aug 11, 2012
kimmo
  5.11a
kimmo  
  5.11a
i think this line was originally climbed with maybe just one bolt.

it climbs much better as a trad line, and really should be free of all bolts. Sep 5, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10c
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10c
It also might be worth noting that if you blow the second clip, you would come damn near close to hitting the deck, if not hitting it. However, the moves to the second clip, though a little thought provoking, are not hard. A great route with a killer crux sequence. Jul 29, 2008
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
awesome route, soft for an index 10d Nov 2, 2007
8jimi8 Clary
rapid city, SD
 
8jimi8 Clary   rapid city, SD
 
man this route is absolutely delectable. exquisite technique.
ultra classic must do route. Sep 3, 2006
jonah
 
jonah  
 
Though the above-mentioned bolt needs to be replaced, you can place a yellow metolius in the flake to its left. Don't fall too hard, though. It would suck to have that flake blow. Mar 20, 2006
The route also has a 20-25 foot extension that is fun climbing, however the rock is less than perfect, in fact a bit rotten in places. It climbs the obvious prow (in a contrived way) standing above the first anchors, probably around .10a Mar 20, 2006
jonah
 
jonah  
 
The second bolt (third fixed piece, including the pin) is bad. THe stud spins in the hole! Anybody feel like doing a public service?

I think the thing must've been over-torqued when it was placed, because it is a new bolt. Bummer. Mar 13, 2006