Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,686 total · 36/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Apr 27, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

49 Opinions

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A fun three pitch line, unfortunately it seems that only the 3rd pitch gets climbed frequently.

The first pitch starts right of the cunning stunt area, it goes up a large block and climbs to the golden flake(obvious). Climb the left side of this until you can traverse right to the gm belay. (5.10)

The second pitch climbs a crack to the left of the dihedral, that is the 2nd pitch of gm. Climb the crack to a stance at the base of the arete. From here you traverse right to the gm belay via two options. Shorter folks will want to traverse low protecting this crux traverse with a solid black alien/grey tcu. Taller folks may want to climb up the arete to a fix pin before traversing right. Doing the higher traverse maybe wingspan dependent.(5.11-)

The third pitch tackles the classic heart of the country splitter hand crack, reaches a ledge and boulders up another short classic hand/thin hand crack. (5.10)

You can bypass any of the pitches by climbing the gm route since both routes share belays.


standard rack, black alien/grey tcu


Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
If you follow the guide books way of doing this route the first pitch is "10a-10d reach" PG...I tried it this weekend, it's hard for the grade and well covered in moss and lychen(only the crux, the rest is clean)...though a little bit less dirty now. The crux is really reachy, I'm almost 5'11" and was completely tipped out at the crux. At the very start, do the right side of the first pillar, it's a 5.8/9 chimney that's pretty fun. May 27, 2008
FA: Jon Stoddard, Randy Stout. Dec 31, 2008
Climbing the combo route of GM and HOTC is very nice. Last "pitch" is definetly not .11a though. Maybe .10a. May 11, 2009
Dave E.
Dave E.   washington
i have been on this route a couple of times and have to say that a medium small nut(#3 WC rock is a perfect fit) works much better that any cam could in the seam/pod at the crux of the second pitch. it flares open inside so to get good camming action you have to pull the cam near to the edge of the crack causing the solid stem just before the axle(alien) to rest over the edge of the crack, back farther is no good as the cam is fully open. take some smaller nuts, fish them in on the right hand side of the pod and set them to the left, now you have bomber pro for the crux! this is a good pitch that deserves more traffic

edit, this is for the low traverse on pitch 2 Aug 3, 2009
Here's a BETA rich update on the first pitch of HOTC. Most people follow the line of "Fools Gold" after climbing the wide crack or flaring corner which is what is described above. HOTC pitch one actually goes as Scott W described above, traversing right.

Here's where it gets good: the 3 old bolts were chopped and 3 replacement bolts placed in locations that protect better. The moss and lichen have been cleaned off and what was underneath is FANTASTIC!

Gear & Beta: You can safely lead the left side of the flake with one or two #6's or just add some 5.4 runout spice. Alternatively you could climb the flaring corner with off fists and grunt to the top of the flake. Loop the top of the flake then continue on some balancy moves past 3 bolts trending right. Protect the undercling and move up. The moves from here are not as reachy as described by Scott W, but only because we removed all the moss and lichen discovering some workable holds. A person from our party is 5'1" and she did it static. The beauty about it is if you blow the crux, you WILL GET AIR. Have some hand size gear for the anchor. From there, continue up the crux pitch or ramble over to the GM corner anchors for an easier path to the top.

In its current state, I would give HOTC p1 a rating of 3.75 out of 4 stars. I drop it from 4 stars only because it requires some really big gear for protection that not everyone has. Go borrow your buddies #6's and get up this climb!

Here's Danielle G. doing the GM/HOTC combo pitch.
youtube.com/watch?v=_0BOsIl… Jul 13, 2013
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
In its current state, I would give HOTC p1 a rating of 3.75 out of 4 stars. I drop it from 4 stars only because it requires some really big gear for protection that not everyone has

Sorry. That's a lame statement. Basically, you give it less stars because you don't have the right gear?

With that logic, all ice climbs are 1 star because I don't have ANY of the appropriate gear.

Way to base quality of a climb on your lack of gear... Aug 3, 2013
Hey slk,

You're commenting on my opinion of the climb, not the climb itself. If you want to discuss my lack of logic as you see it, I'd love to. But let's remove it from this page and into a relevant forum. Putting it here is contrary to Guideline #2. Aug 17, 2013
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
Nah Douglas, I'll leave it her just to be a "Guideline #1"

Admin can take it down if they want. Stop taking MP so seriously.

Fact: You gave the climb less stars because it takes big gear.

I wouldn't consider it the climbs fault if I didn't have the appropriate gear, sorry.

And per your email rant, I only lead in the 5.8 range and will probably never lead 5.11. If that makes me a poser for commenting on your lame reasoning, then oh well... Aug 18, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I think Douglas was fine here -- he gave the reason for his rating, which is more than many people do.

Though some might give stars based just on the climbing, some consider the runouts as part of the quality.

Overall, it is probably best not to take the stars too seriously, and for each person to be consistent. One person's 4 might be another's 2, but in the end, we see the average. Aug 18, 2013
The top anchors have been upgraded. May 21, 2014
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
I led the first pitch of this today and my partner led a bit of the second pitch. The first pitch is doable albeit slightly dirty. Unfortunately, the lichen and debris has crept back into the second pitch, so a wire brush might be nice for that section. Looks stellar. The 4th "pitch" (really just an extension of the well-traveled 3rd pitch) is in great shape. The book rates it 5.11a for some reason, but I didn't find it any harder than the standard 3rd pitch at 5.10a. Aug 10, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
**BETA ALERT for P1**

As of August 2016, the first pitch is still clean -- don't let the tangle of salal and brambles at the base deter you... after you pull onto the flake, the rest of the climb is in good shape and a fun line in its own right.

A #4 and a bolt protect the bottom of the flake. If you don't have a #6, the runout up the flake doesn't feel too heady because the lieback is low-angle, 5.4 climbing and once at the top of the flake you can throw a long sling over the tip to protect the move to the next bolt.

The balancey face/slab moves in the middle feel about .10- and the bolts are right where you want them.

When you get the finish, you can place a couple finger-sized cams (I also used a red metolius) in the horizontal before stepping up to try for the slap onto the ledge. I think this move is a dyno for most, but for shorter folks there are a few intermediate edges you can use to stretch up to the ledge. (Using the thumbpress on the right is key, for me, at least, to be able to stretch enough for my left fingertips to reach the top.) Hard to give it a grade because it is so reach dependent, but at my height it feels .10c.

Your gear will be below your feet when you make this move and gets further away as you hand-traverse the ledge around to the right in order to pull up onto the small boulder on the ledge. If the prospect of falling during this sequence spooks you, climb P1 of GM first, clip the anchor, step around the corner to climbers left, place a .75 or #1 in the horizontal above the ledge, and suspend a few slings connected together over the ledge. This will allow you the option of clipping something to protect the finish. Aug 31, 2016