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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Greg Olsen and Jon Nelson, 1983
Page Views: 1,232 total, 11/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Fun face climbing capped by a very difficult mantle.

This route is immediately right of the second pitch of GM. From the anchors, walk right several feet on a ledge to a wide crack. Climbing this leads to an undercling. Heading rightward leads to the real business, face climbing on chickenheads, jutting intrusive stones, and tiny edges. Climb mostly straight up until you reach a sloping, narrow ledge, then hand-traverse right to the anchors.

The final mantle to the chains is rumored to be impossible for humans.

Location

To the right of GM's second pitch.

Protection

A couple of pieces of trad gear would protect the very bottom moves, after that pro is 3 bolts.

Can be easily toproped after climbing GM.

Photos

Todd Anderson
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Todd Anderson   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
A hand-sized piece is nice if you want something before the first bolt, and a green Alien is perfect for protecting the mantle. Oct 30, 2017
Anyone know what the top half of this pitch goes free at above the anchor chains? Fought my way through the stem box (TR, felt .11+?), but the first moves off the anchor felt extra burly. Ended up just starting this by standing on the anchor bolts, after that the climbing was great!

Cramer gives it 5.10 C1/2. Aug 23, 2013
Douglas T
  5.11b
Douglas T  
  5.11b
If you think knees are aid, the last move will be really hard. I clipped the final anchors with my face in the rock my knees on the ledge, and my feet out in space. Have some small nuts to protect the last move, #2 to protect the start and QD's in between. Frequently practiced on TR from the Heart of the Country anchor. Jul 16, 2013
I have observed that this route is now protected by shiny new bolts, placed right next to the partially-removed old mank. Jun 29, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.11c
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.11c
I TRed this route today after climbing HOTC, and thought it was pretty difficult in the grade. I made two separate attempts at the mantel and finally pulled it off, but was left standing to the left of the anchor, face against the rock. Great route, though, with sustained knob climbing all the way to the sloping ledge below the anchor. Jul 29, 2008
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The mantel at the top is .11a (and very doable); if you fail to bring stoppers/small cams to protect it, you may end up grabbing the chains (as I did). Be aware that you have to FULLY mantel to reach the chains (unless you are tall). The bolts on the route are very rusty; it may be desirable to replace them at this point. Jul 3, 2008
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
If your leading this take along some small stoppers or maybe small cams to protect the mantel. I had a harder time gaining the rail then pulling the mantel. Jul 1, 2008