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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson, Larry Kemp
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This is a somewhat short but very engaging edging problem. A crux right off the ledge surmounting the first bulge is guaranteed to get your attention. The rest of the climb is sustained crimping and edging with another hard section near the top.

Location

From where the trail continues to Steel Monkey, head right onto a grassy ledge. Use caution: the drop from this ledge would be fatal. The climb starts under an obvious scooped overhang from a comfortable but unprotected belay stance. A 60m rope descends.

Protection

Bolts. The anchor consists of many old slings and pieces of rope around a tree; these should probably be viewed with suspicion.

A stick clip is necessary as there is no belay anchor on the ledge; a lead fall without pre-clipping could result in a (probable) fatal fall from the ledge. One should opt to clip the second bolt, as the first will create extreme rope drag.

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This is a good pitch with cool boulder moves. As of 12/7/14 one of the bolts in the middle of the pitch has been smashed by rock fall. This route would be a good candidate for re bolting anyway. Dries super fast and is a lot of fun! Dec 8, 2014
I think there might be a hangerless 1/4" bolt(or two) on the left side of the ledge. When originally climbed there was a large flake at the base that made the first clip and the start of the traverse really easy. Later some rascals trundled it along with a bunch of other rocks in the area. As a result the ledge has become much smaller than it was when the routes were first climbed. Resist the urge to trundle. Seawash west to Steel Monkey is a great place to climb in cold weather (if the sun is shining). Seawash was first climbed in the low 30s with snow all around. The winds were howling a few feet away from the rock but the person actually climbing was virtually wind free. Dec 31, 2008