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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: FA: Jon Nelson, Darryl Cramer '83
Page Views: 1,196 total, 11/month
Shared By: Drewsky on May 6, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A powerful start leads to a cruxy balance move. Sustained, delicate climbing leads past several small corners and a small roof to finish on a ledge.

The fact that this route has been flashed by someone five feet tall (guess who) should be enough to silence any complaints about the reachy climbing. The crux is 100% Index and is more than enough to keep almost any ego in check.

The second clip is powerful and a fall from that point would be a ground fall. Also, my diminutive 5'10" reach was just barely enough to get the first quickdraw on from the ground, so bring a tall friend (AKA a stick clip) along if your arms are shorter. The bolt after the crux is even more reachy unless you are bold.

Location

Located to the left of Heironymous Bosch. It is the leftward trending line of bolts that approaches Fifth Force and then arches back right. A 60m rope should be sufficient for the descent.

Protection

Six bolts plus a two bolt anchor. If you are short (under 6 ft.) a couple of the bolts will be very difficult to clip (from stances) without quickdraws hanging.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Chris: I did send this thing. I did not onsight it, however as did, I believe, Lynn Hill. There may be another way to do it, but ***BETA SPOLER ALERT*** that foothold was the key for me. I thought it couldn't possibly work, but I switched feet on it, R to L, with no real handholds and teetered over to the left somehow for the win. It looked to me like it *might* be possible to climb straight up and move left a little higher, but it sure seemed like it would be harder than the magic foot switch deal. Jun 22, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Chris,
I recall the crux of P1 as an all-out dyno. Or are you referring to the next pitches? May 16, 2014
Drew, Ben, or Mike Patz - have any of you guys sent this thing? I tried it today and found the crux foothold to be impossibly far away. The route definitely felt more difficult than 5th Force, Narrow Arrow, Like honey, Orc Tower, Engines of Archimedes, and pretty much every other Index 12 I've tried! I assume the 5' climber was Lynn? May 15, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Now (as of June 2011) has a second and third pitch.

P2: "G is for Giners", 12a (or one letter grade harder than P1).

P3: A 5.8 splitter crack.

I have done neither, so if someone reading this has more info or corrections, please add here. Apr 23, 2012