Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views: 1,245 total · 10/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This begins with the start of Fool's Gold. After climbing the large flake at the bottom (either side), face climb up and right past two bolts (includes a fun mantle move) to a large orangish flake with rippled rock texture. Jam and layback the left side to the top of the flake, then do a few power moves left to the shallow corner (perhaps the crux) and go up the corner past two more bolts. Near the top, there is another cruxy move involving a palmy layback. Belay or lower from the chains in the alcove.

Location

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. You can barely lower to the start with a 60-m rope.

Protection

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.

After the first two face bolts, you need small wires, a finger-sized cam to protect the upper traverse left (possibly the crux), and a few cams to 2.5" for the gold flake. Four bolts total.

Photos

Mike Schmitt  
 
Now that the start has been cleaned up, this is a fantastic route! The 5.9 starting option can be well protected with one each of #4 and #5 camalots (or avoided by soloing the left side of the flake at 5.4). Thereafter, you don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot. A small nut (e.g. HB #6 offset) can be placed between the two bolts on the upper section. All the bolts and the anchor are solid as of 7/13. Jul 21, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
A big thanks to Derek Pearson for cleaning this one up and replacing bolts. Jul 25, 2013
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
 
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
 
Oh I only added one at the top of the flake . I never got around to doing the rest. I think mike did it .

Mike, where the two bolts are that protect the mantle move to get to the crack , I wanted to move that clip up higher so it protects the move better . And did you replace the carabiniers with links at the anchor ? Moving from the top of the flake left I wanted to add a bolt there . And then reposition the next two bolts .

This one of my favorite climbs . Thanks Jon for the props but I'm not responsible for the all work it seems there are a few people that like to help with route clean up. Jul 26, 2013
Mike Schmitt  
 
It would be great to reposition the bolts to have one protect the moves leading into the mantle, and also have a high one at the mantle. I actually avoided the mantle move by climbing right, then up, then left. I personally have not replaced any bolts/biners on the route, but all the hardware seemed to be in decent shape. Aug 7, 2013
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
My partner and I thought the crux was moving from the gold flake into the corner. The layback moves up to the anchor are more insecure, but seemed easier.

Yet the guidebook shows the lower move off the gold flake as just 5.10. Were we doing it wrong? What do others think? Aug 5, 2014
The route has unique FA story. Jon cleaned it and placed the two bolts by himself and then drove off to graduate school. (either to Illinois or Georgia) Before leaving he sent word out that the route was ready to go. Nov 14, 2018