Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker
Page Views: 2,764 total · 18/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

This begins with the start of Fool's Gold. After climbing the large flake at the bottom (either side), face climb up and right past two bolts (includes a fun mantle move) to a large orangish flake with rippled rock texture. Jam and layback the left side to the top of the flake, then do a few power moves left to the shallow corner (perhaps the crux) and go up the corner past two more bolts. Near the top, there is another cruxy move involving a palmy layback. Belay or lower from the chains in the alcove.

Location

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. You can barely lower to the start with a 60-m rope.

Protection

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.

After the first two face bolts, you need small wires, a finger-sized cam to protect the upper traverse left (possibly the crux), and a few cams to 2.5" for the gold flake. Four bolts total.

Photos