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D is for Dictory
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 25
votes
Routes in (c) The Country
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Angora Grotto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Butters Ate My Sandwich S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c C1 |
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Climax Control S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fifth Force S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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G is for Giners T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hieronymus Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Indextasy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kaboom aka Jesus take the wheel S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Last Man Standing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Leave My Flake Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Longlife T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Whippets S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c C0-1 |
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Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Science Fiction T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scoop, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Uptight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 47.81962, -121.56921 |
| FA: | Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker |
| Page Views: | 3,270 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Dec 31, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
This begins with the start of Fool's Gold. After climbing the large flake at the bottom (either side), face climb up and right past two bolts (includes a fun but runout mantle move) to a large orangish flake with rippled rock texture. Jam and layback the left side to the top of the flake, then do a few power moves left to the shallow corner (perhaps the crux) and go up the corner past two more bolts. Near the top, there is another cruxy move involving a palmy layback. Belay or lower from the chains in the alcove.
Location
Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. You can barely lower to the start with a 60-m rope.
Protection
Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.
After the first two face bolts, you need small wires, a finger-sized cam to protect the upper traverse left (possibly the crux), and a few cams to 2.5" for the gold flake. Four bolts total.
7 Comments