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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Greg Child, Greg Collum, P2: Greg Collum, Kurt Schmierer
Page Views: 3,028 total, 25/month
Shared By: Scott W on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Yet another Index classic, first pitch follows various features to a slab section(11a), then jugs to the top...excellent climbing. The second pitch goes straight up from the anchors, through a roof/layback (11c) to huge jugs and a fun technical finish. Soft for the grade.

Location

Just left of Frank Presley, starts up a small dihedral.

Protection

Rack of quickdraws

Photos

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
As of 7/18/17, there is an active hornets nest just above the first bolt, under the small roof. It would be difficult to avoid when making the moves out of the corner. Be careful if you try, or start on the route to the right and traverse into Kite at the second bolt to circumvent the nest. Jul 20, 2017
Douglas T  
 
What a Fantastic climb! I think the 5.11c grade is closer to spot-on than way-off. Easier than Japanese Gardens but harder than Even Steven or Phone Calls from the Dead.

The climb is perfectly fine as a clip-up sport climb. However, one could supplement or even skip the bolts in the final corner with a handful of small cams. Either way is fine as long as you climb.

If you want to project P2 via TR, you can skip the crux by entering in from the "Leave my Face Alone" slab into the final "Kite" corner. A Super-TR can even be made from the ground with two 70m ropes. Aug 17, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
I also thought the first pitch was stiff for 11a. Mar 21, 2012
Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.11b
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.11b
Both pitches feel 11b to me.. Aug 17, 2009