Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Greg Child, Greg Collum, P2: Greg Collum, Kurt Schmierer
Page Views: 3,315 total · 24/month
Shared By: Scott W on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Yet another Index classic, first pitch follows various features to a slab section(11a), then jugs to the top...excellent climbing. The second pitch goes straight up from the anchors, through a roof/layback (11c) to huge jugs and a fun technical finish. Soft for the grade.

Location

Just left of Frank Presley, starts up a small dihedral.

Protection

Rack of quickdraws

Photos

Eric8
Maynard, MA
  5.11b
Eric8   Maynard, MA
  5.11b
Both pitches feel 11b to me.. Aug 17, 2009
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
 
I also thought the first pitch was stiff for 11a. Mar 21, 2012
What a Fantastic climb! I think the 5.11c grade is closer to spot-on than way-off. Easier than Japanese Gardens but harder than Even Steven or Phone Calls from the Dead.

The climb is perfectly fine as a clip-up sport climb. However, one could supplement or even skip the bolts in the final corner with a handful of small cams. Either way is fine as long as you climb.

If you want to project P2 via TR, you can skip the crux by entering in from the "Leave my Face Alone" slab into the final "Kite" corner. A Super-TR can even be made from the ground with two 70m ropes. Aug 17, 2013
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
As of 7/18/17, there is an active hornets nest just above the first bolt, under the small roof. It would be difficult to avoid when making the moves out of the corner. Be careful if you try, or start on the route to the right and traverse into Kite at the second bolt to circumvent the nest. Jul 20, 2017
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
 
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
 
Finally got on the second pitch after avoiding it for so long because the first "11a" pitch felt hopeless. Amazingly, the second pitch felt easier overall. Wish I had gotten on it sooner. Makes me wonder if I'm doing that first pitch wrong.. are you supposed to stay in that hopelessly blank and reachy corner, or take a few steps out right and use the stuff frank presley? Oct 20, 2018
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.11b/c
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.11b/c
Josh, you can stay in the corner via some pretty desperate stemming while using some bad holds hidden on the left side. After a few moves you can reach up to the better holds at the overlap (and make another cruxy move). Oct 22, 2018