Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,854 total · 23/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Mar 6, 2015
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Another rad pitch that sees almost no traffic. It was given .12a in the original Clint Cumins guide, which I think it definitely earns in relation to other lowertownwall classics. Begin on tenuous knob climbing via Little Jupiter (short version) or Big Science - Both of which end on a ledge 50' up. These are rated .11d or .12b respectively to the 50' ledge/anchors. From the ledge, clip a bolt and climb up and right into a fun and juggy flake (.10) which takes great finger-sized gear. After the flake ends, a few bolts lead past a very tenuous crux crimping on perfect stone, with a few hero jugs over the roof to the chains.

This pitch used to have a huge railroad spike bashed into a pocket up high (a drilled angle piton on steroids) and girth hitched for pro- this has been removed and replaced with a normal bolt. I wonder if the FA team ran out of bolts (or just wanted to save $) and simply walked over to the tracks and robbed the railroad for the final fixed piece.

There is an extension which feature an immediate crux (chipped right hand pocket) rated .12b or .12c in the various books, and which then passes a couple more bolts and a remaining railroad spike "piton" before anchors up and right. The full version to there would be a 45-50m pitch and is almost certainly very dirty.

Location

Begin in the small corner just left of the door to nowhere (or begin in the flake just right of the door). The independent section of this pitch starts from a ledge 50' off the ground.

Protection

10-12 QDS, and 3-4 cams from .4-.75BD

Photos