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Routes in The Country

Angora Grotto T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Science T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Climax Control S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cream of the Country T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crowbar T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cunning Stunt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D is for Dictory T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Force S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool's Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frank Presley S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hairway to Stephen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heart of the Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heironymous Bosch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kite Flying Blind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave My Face Alone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mourning Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patrick's Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Ventricle T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
SS Ultrabrutal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savage Gardens T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scientific Americans T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spooner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steel Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Total Seawash Calypso S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tunnel Vision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wham S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wipe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zoom T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,592 total, 23/month
Shared By: Scott W on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

An area classic, possibly the best or second best sport route I've ever done. Vertical climbing with hard cruxes and great rests. Very intriguing climbing!

Location

Start on Cunning Stunt but cut right before the first pin and clip a bolt...head straight up from there.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.12
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12
Thank you for the fresh hardware Doug.

What a great pitch. Powerful granite face climbing with intricate sequences separated by good rests. The crux definitely becomes harder the shorter you are and a rating is thus hard to give.

For some reference, Siegrist called this .13, "and hard at that!" Nov 24, 2015
kerwinl
  5.12
kerwinl  
  5.12
Thanks for putting in the new hardware!

For anyone getting on the route soon, note that the slopey rail above the 6th bolt is a little slippery from the rock dust from the bolt replacement. I gave the area above the rail and rail itself a good scrubbing, but it will probably take a bit more rain to clean it off all the way. Apr 22, 2015
All bolts are SS as of 2015. Get out there and SEND IT... or fall, it doesn't matter now. Mar 28, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
FA: Greg Collum, Greg Child, Greg Olsen. Dec 31, 2008
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
If you are short, the bottom section of the route contains a rather potent crux; the two options I've taken have been:

1: Clip the 3rd bolt, then downclimb a move and step right to a left facing lieback and a lunge move from small crimps (part of the the "force-fed" variation); then head left on big holds to rejoin Fifth Force.

2: Take on the "original" tall man crux directly above the 3rd bolt. Full-on dyno if short, but a longer reach might eliminate the dyno.

Either way, an absolute classic. Jul 3, 2008