Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Gibson, Greg Markov
Page Views: 8,733 total · 55/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

132 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A fun route with great rock and varied climbing.

Right of the tunnel is a large flake. To the right of this flake notice the ledge going across to the right, about 20-feet up. (The ledge become a large ramp on the right-most side where it intersects the hillside.) The first pitch starts at the two-bolt anchor about 1/3 of the way across this ledge.

To reach the start, you have a few choices. The easiest is to hike up the trail to the left of the ledge and then walk out the ledge. Some parties may not want a rope to get to the bolted anchor, but if the ledge is wet, it might be nice to have a short belay.

P1: (5.8+) Climb up the corner past a bolt to a long ledge. Traverse to the left end of the ledge, where you will find a bolted belay by the tree. Uses face and layback moves plus the occasional jam. Protects well with nuts and cams.

P2: (5.9) Continue directly up the corner and then up an easier flake section. This pitch can take big gear to protect the easier section, but cams to 3" would be fine for those comfortable at the grade. The moves between the corner and the crack/flake above can be hard.

P3: (5.9)Head left and then up a crack to bolts at the top.

A fun variation is to follow the crack up and right from the belay (Heart of the Country, 10b).

Descent: Rap the route. You can reach the ground from the top of the second pitch with 2 60-m ropes.


Standard trad rack to 4 or 5" be sure to bring at least 2 big pieces (e.g. #4 and #5 camalots) for the second pitch. All belays/rap stations are bolted. Make sure to have runners for the first pitch to help reduce rope drag.


Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
There is a great varition from the top of the 5.10b pitch on heart of the country that continues for about 40 more feet. The Cramer guide calls it 11a, but its not any harder than 5.10 with great gear. Mar 13, 2006
john stiles
john stiles   Bellingham
i agree with jesse, the final pitch on hoc is 10. the last 3 pitches are short and link up easily with a 60 making it a great full-value pitch. Aug 12, 2006
8jimi8 Clary
rapid city, SD
8jimi8 Clary   rapid city, SD
i'll second the full value.

and i'll have seconds please.

John thanks for showing us the route, say hey to Michelle :) Sep 3, 2006
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
I don't think the big gear is all that necessary on the 2nd pitch. I think I placed a #3 and #4 camalot on that pitch. If you look around there are some options. Oct 15, 2007
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
If the right hand start is wet, I'd suggest scrambling around from the left. We climbed the right hand side and the ledge was wet, leave covered, and downright scary for both the leader and follower. Oct 27, 2008
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
looked at this today, the sloping ledge 30 feet above sharp flakes scared us off. is there a easier way to get up? also, how many people solo the 5.10 direct start? getting into the route looked super sketch Jun 27, 2010
As sqwirll says, scrambling in from the left is easy. I would almost always do that before the right-hand approach.

The direct "boulder problem" seemed much harder than the 5.10c Cummins's guide gives it, even on TR. Jun 6, 2011
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
The ground can be reached in two raps with a single 70m form the top. Or 3 raps if you want, but it definitely works. All the stars if you do the heart of country pitch which is phenomenal. Don't stop on the ledge, just keep going up the crack for more of the same for the "variation." Sep 30, 2012
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
While I do appreciate the re-bolting effort on this route, it would have been nice to see the old bolts chopped rather than leaving them in place right next to the new, good ones.

For locals, someone ought to take a breaker bar and some epoxy up that route when they think of it and chop the old studs and patch the holes. Aug 10, 2013
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
My buddy began the right hand start today (it was soaking wet but the cracks above were dry), and slipped and fell on the ledge BEFORE traversing to clip the anchor roughy 16-18 ft to the deck. He was either very lucky or very good at sliding down wet slabs and walked away very shaken and some bad bruises. We agreed he was fortunate as he could have broken a bone or worse. Needless to say we should have ventured left or not at all Dec 7, 2014
Good fun. Singles of 3" and 4" gear (no 5") for P2 is sufficient if the lead is even somewhat comfortable at 5.9. Also, the ledge approach from the left side of the ledge is easy and largely free of loose stuff. Go that way. May 17, 2016
Tavish Hansen
Seattle, WA
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, WA
The final 8 feet or so of laybacking on the 2nd pitch requires a #5 C4 if you want to protect it, but there are super bomber chickenheads for footholds and I would say it was the easiest part of the pitch. I had 2 #3s, a #4, and a #5 and placed all of them including bumping the #4 for about 10 feet, but it would definitely still have been safe with just a #3 and #4. Mar 19, 2017
Spent some time cleaning the ledge at the start of the first pitch on 5/28/2018. When the rock is clear it's not too sketchy. When it's covered with needles and moss, it's hard psychologically. This route is definitely worth doing. May 31, 2018