Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Gibson, Greg Markov
Page Views: 12,031 total · 68/month
Shared By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A fun route with great rock and varied climbing.

Right of the tunnel is a large flake. To the right of this flake notice the ledge going across to the right, about 20-feet up. (The ledge become a large ramp on the right-most side where it intersects the hillside.) The first pitch starts at the two-bolt anchor about 1/3 of the way across this ledge.

To reach the start, you have a few choices. The easiest is to hike up the trail to the left of the ledge and then walk out the ledge. Some parties may not want a rope to get to the bolted anchor, but if the ledge is wet, it might be nice to have a short belay.

P1: (5.8+) Climb up the corner past a bolt to a long ledge. Traverse to the left end of the ledge, where you will find a bolted belay by the tree. Uses face and layback moves plus the occasional jam. Protects well with nuts and cams.

P2: (5.9) Continue directly up the corner and then up an easier flake section. This pitch can take big gear to protect the easier section, but cams to 3" would be fine for those comfortable at the grade. The moves between the corner and the crack/flake above can be hard.

P3: (5.9)Head left and then up a crack to bolts at the top.

A fun variation is to follow the crack up and right from the belay (Heart of the Country, 10b).

Descent: Rap the route. You can reach the ground from the top of the second pitch with 2 60-m ropes.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 4 or 5" be sure to bring at least 2 big pieces (e.g. #4 and #5 camalots) for the second pitch. All belays/rap stations are bolted. Make sure to have runners for the first pitch to help reduce rope drag.

Multiple #3's (nice if one is a 3.5) for the original P3.

Photos