Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Carrie Lin Robertson
Page Views: 3,379 total · 15/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


151 Opinions

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Description

Eds. this is a consolidation of 2 entries for the same route.

This is one of the few beginner/intermediate climbs you are going to find at Shelf worth doing. The anchors are located on the right side of the dihedral at the top.

Per Glen Charnoski: this is a great beginner route! The route starts a bit vertical, but good edges lead to numerous ledges. The arete to the right can be used for support or the face climbed in its own right. The crux seems to be getting enough height to clip the anchors! (There is a crack to boost yourself up to it.)

Location

This route is located on the face directly around the corner to the left of Suburbia.

Per Glen Charnoski: the route is on the left side of the arete (to the right of "Times Square" and around the corner from Necropolus). The route goes up the center of the beautiful, long slab. End on a big ledge just below the anchor near the top of the cliff. Reach up high or use the crack at left to reach the anchor.

Protection

Per Glen Charnoski: 10 bolts. The first bolt is about 25' off the ground for some reason, so I rated it PG-13, but it could be stick clipped.

Photos

Carrie  
FA: Carrie Robertson Oct 3, 2003
Carrie  
The First Time This Climb Was Climbed, I Did It -While Hallin A Rope Line (To Hall A Drill Up & Retro Suburbia), With No Bolts (One Day Before I Personally Free Fell Off Top Of DoRDi) /Solo. Oct 3, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Time Square has seven bolts. The climbing isn't very continuous, and the bolts are placed to the right of the natural line. An OK warm-up for the harder routes in the area. Oct 15, 2003
micah stocker
  5.9-
micah stocker  
  5.9-
Great beginner route. This was an awsome introduction to the climbing at Shelf Road. I highly recommend taking new climbers there, especially your girlfriend. Feb 14, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Personally, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginners. The bolts are run out, many of the moves in the run out sections are awkward, if you fall before clipping into the anchors there is a good chance of injury, and if you fall before clipping into the first bolt you are either going to get skewered by a dead tree or break an ankle. Mar 14, 2006
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
I agree w/ the first comment. Watch out for the hornet nest before the first clip or just skip this climb altogether. 5.8 w/o bees, 5.10 w/ bees. Oct 10, 2006
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
This a good top-rope route for beginners but due to the crazy bolting, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader. The first bolt is way up there followed very soon after an apparently later-added bolt which doesn't make too much sense and then more spacious clips after that.

At the top, instead of placing the anchors within reach from the obvious ledge, the route continues up into a short, semi-awkward corner for a couple of moves before reaching the anchors. A fall in this section would result in hitting the good ledge below. The cold shuts at the top are in dire need of replacement (especially the left one) due to too many people lowering or TRing directly through them. Nov 13, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.8
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.8
There is nothing to recommend about this climb. Not safe to lead for budding 5.8 leaders, not very interesting climbing, and the anchors have received less though than many Ive ever seen. Still, it does draw the crowds. Go figure. Jun 14, 2008
If you keep right - like right on the arete- the bolt placement is perfect. the rock is nicer there and the climb feels more exciting [read exposure] as you glance down into the Suburbia alcove. The layback/stem/jam crux at the anchors offers an interesting change of pace. Fun warm-up May 23, 2010
Dirty, chossy, and has a huge (50lb?) loose block about 2/3's the way up. Nov 25, 2011
Grant Gerhard
Las Vegas, NV
Grant Gerhard   Las Vegas, NV
Contrived and not great stone. Mar 7, 2012
sclair
SLC, Ut
sclair   SLC, Ut
Compared to the 5.8s on Menses Prow, this is a kind of brainless climb. In fact, the only part I really enjoyed was analyzing what felt wrong about the bolt placements. I did not come up with an answer, though. If you want to climb 5.8 at Shelf, go to Menses. If you want to climb on the Contest Wall, warm up on the 5.9s to the left (The Opportunist and its neighbor). They are much more fun! May 31, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Didn't find any choss.... It was a good warm-up that required little thought. I say go do it! Dec 16, 2013
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.8
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.8
Certainly a much better route than some people report here. The best movement is on the right side at the arete. The bolting positions can give pause to new leaders, however. Probably a fair 2 star route. Apr 21, 2014
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8 PG13
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8 PG13
Agree with many of the comments above. While the route itself is pretty fun, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader due to the bolting. Do it if you're solid on 5.8s, just don't fall. Nov 7, 2015
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
I don't think this deserves a bomb, but what do I know? I like to warm up on this one before hitting some of the harder stuff in this area. I do agree that the first bolt is a bit run out for a new / 5.8 leader, but it's a freaking staircase to get to it. Mar 14, 2016
Joncharlesdavis
  5.8 PG13
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.8 PG13
Solid stone if you stay away from the dihedral. Aug 18, 2017