Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Fred Knapp could tell you
Page Views: 3,178 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


148 Opinions

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Description

This route starts 10 feet left of Knot Head in the Dune alcove. It is the third bolted line left of Dune, and doesn't appear in the Van Horn or Knapp guidebooks.

Climb the steep dark face to the anchors. Staying to the right of the bolts is easier, but following the bolt line more directly is also possible.

Sustained and interesting climbing; an excellent warm-up route.

Per Nate Oakes: this is pretty sustained - I didn't feel like there was a definite crux anywhere on this route. There are plenty of crimper ledges all the way up, as well as good feet. Watch for a little rubble on the ledges starting about halfway up. There is a great view at the top!

Eds. this is a combination of submissions that were for the same route. The newer submission's content was moved to this page.

Location

Per Nate Oakes: once you hit the crag, go uphill (to the right) past 15 or so routes. This one is 2 to the left of Phase Dance, a 12a with two roofs that lies almost in the corner of a prominent alcove.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Michael Amato
  5.9
Michael Amato  
  5.9
An excellent warm-up, passes a series of ledges for about 80 ft. Oct 18, 2004
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
I believe this is called "The Opportunist" in the new Knapp book and follows the larger of the two cracks in the photo I submitted. The route to the right starting on the much smaller crack (10 black coldshuts to 2 bolt anchor) is called "Enterprise" (rated 5.9+ in same). Feb 13, 2006
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Nice long warm up climb! Oct 10, 2006
Casey Flynn
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Casey Flynn   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Grade 5, eh? Mar 31, 2008
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
I was here on Sunday, Oct. 14, 2012; the second to last bolt is missing the hanger. Oct 17, 2012
Matthew Coye
Frisco, Colorado
 
Matthew Coye   Frisco, Colorado
 
Took this one for a warm-up and was fairly surprised to see the hanger missing on the last bolt...gotta start reading these comments! Nov 27, 2012
The last hanger is still missing 3/5/13, all it needs is the hanger and a nut for a wedge bolt. The bolts still appears to be sound. Mar 7, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
I took the opportunity today to put a hanger on the last bolt. The existing bolt appears solid, sound, and not corroded. Mar 29, 2013
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Badly bolted, almost every clip was below my waist and 3 feet left of the holds for no apparent reason. Jun 13, 2016
I thought this was a great warm-up. I agree that the bolting was at times a little bizarre, further left than what felt like the obvious line. That said, there's nothing particularly complicated about the climb, so it wasn't too bad. The climbing itself is quite fun. Oct 10, 2016
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
The bolting is fine and good on the route. Stay on the bolt line, and it all feels right. If you want to climb the crack to the right, just bring your rack. Mar 12, 2017