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Routes in Contest Wall

9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curious George S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dough Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It's Miller Time S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knot Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
List, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Mecca S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Porkus Non Grata S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primal Urge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
River of Rabbits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scary Carrie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shithouse Traverse V0- 4-
Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slamdance Cosmopolis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trick-or-Treat TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Fred Knapp could tell you
Page Views: 2,827 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts 10 feet left of Knot Head in the Dune alcove. It is the third bolted line left of Dune, and doesn't appear in the Van Horn or Knapp guidebooks.

Climb the steep dark face to the anchors. Staying to the right of the bolts is easier, but following the bolt line more directly is also possible.

Sustained and interesting climbing; an excellent warm-up route.

Per Nate Oakes: this is pretty sustained - I didn't feel like there was a definite crux anywhere on this route. There are plenty of crimper ledges all the way up, as well as good feet. Watch for a little rubble on the ledges starting about halfway up. There is a great view at the top!

Eds. this is a combination of submissions that were for the same route. The newer submission's content was moved to this page.

Location

Per Nate Oakes: once you hit the crag, go uphill (to the right) past 15 or so routes. This one is 2 to the left of Phase Dance, a 12a with two roofs that lies almost in the corner of a prominent alcove.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
The bolting is fine and good on the route. Stay on the bolt line, and it all feels right. If you want to climb the crack to the right, just bring your rack. Mar 12, 2017
I thought this was a great warm-up. I agree that the bolting was at times a little bizarre, further left than what felt like the obvious line. That said, there's nothing particularly complicated about the climb, so it wasn't too bad. The climbing itself is quite fun. Oct 10, 2016
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
 
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
 
Badly bolted, almost every clip was below my waist and 3 feet left of the holds for no apparent reason. Jun 13, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
I took the opportunity today to put a hanger on the last bolt. The existing bolt appears solid, sound, and not corroded. Mar 29, 2013
The last hanger is still missing 3/5/13, all it needs is the hanger and a nut for a wedge bolt. The bolts still appears to be sound. Mar 7, 2013
Matthew Coye
Frisco, Colorado
 
Matthew Coye   Frisco, Colorado
 
Took this one for a warm-up and was fairly surprised to see the hanger missing on the last bolt...gotta start reading these comments! Nov 27, 2012
Kenny P
Woodland Park
Kenny P   Woodland Park
I was here on Sunday, Oct. 14, 2012; the second to last bolt is missing the hanger. Oct 17, 2012
Casey Flynn
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Casey Flynn   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Grade 5, eh? Mar 31, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
Nice long warm up climb! Oct 10, 2006
Livia
Moose Jaw, SK
Livia   Moose Jaw, SK
I believe this is called "The Opportunist" in the new Knapp book and follows the larger of the two cracks in the photo I submitted. The route to the right starting on the much smaller crack (10 black coldshuts to 2 bolt anchor) is called "Enterprise" (rated 5.9+ in same). Feb 13, 2006
Michael Amato
  5.9
Michael Amato  
  5.9
An excellent warm-up, passes a series of ledges for about 80 ft. Oct 18, 2004