Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Harvey Miller and Ed Quesada
Page Views: 687 total · 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the second route right of Turbo Road, 5.11d. The first black bolt is about 35 feet up. Don't let this stop you from doing this route. It is a lot of fun.

Get on top of the flake, and follow 5.8 rock to the first bolt. A #0.75 Camalot can be placed in a pocket about 10 above the large flake. Clip some old Star Dryven bolts and a drilled piton. A newer bolt connects this route with the anchor on Cattle Prod, 5.11b, on the left. There are anchors on the ledge above you. The slings are a little old, but at least one of the bolts is somewhat new. You should think about rapping the line.

Eds. This was retrobolted. It was originally done on gear.

Protection

Draws, #0.75 Camalot.

Photos

Ed Quesada
Colorado Springs
 
Ed Quesada   Colorado Springs
 
FA: Harvey Miller and Ed Q. We did the FA on trad pro: wires and tri-cams. The crux move was literally lunging through a cholla plant. Apr 19, 2015