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Routes in Contest Wall

9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curious George S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dough Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It's Miller Time S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knot Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
List, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Mecca S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Porkus Non Grata S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primal Urge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
River of Rabbits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scary Carrie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shithouse Traverse V0- 4-
Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slamdance Cosmopolis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trick-or-Treat TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Harvey Miller and Ed Quesada
Page Views: 639 total, 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the second route right of Turbo Road, 5.11d. The first black bolt is about 35 feet up. Don't let this stop you from doing this route. It is a lot of fun.

Get on top of the flake, and follow 5.8 rock to the first bolt. A #0.75 Camalot can be placed in a pocket about 10 above the large flake. Clip some old Star Dryven bolts and a drilled piton. A newer bolt connects this route with the anchor on Cattle Prod, 5.11b, on the left. There are anchors on the ledge above you. The slings are a little old, but at least one of the bolts is somewhat new. You should think about rapping the line.

Eds. This was retrobolted. It was originally done on gear.

Protection

Draws, #0.75 Camalot.

Photos

Ed Quesada 1  
 
FA: Harvey Miller and Ed Q. We did the FA on trad pro: wires and tri-cams. The crux move was literally lunging through a cholla plant. Apr 19, 2015