Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob & Carrie Robertson, Reggie Slavens, Bill Bowers
Page Views: 450 total · 19/month
Shared By: Reggie Slavens on Mar 17, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

After the 1st bolt, veer left towards the crack in the obvious inside corner. Layback and stem up the inside corner to a small roof and then to a much larger roof. Do a scary traverse left under the large roof to the face around the corner. Once firmly established on the face, climb easier ground up to the anchors.

Please note that we tried to remove the suspicious looking flake under the big roof. It wouldn't budge.

Location

This is three routes right of the landmark climb Suburbia. It shares a 1st bolt with Spike.

Protection

10 route bolts with 2 ring anchors.

Photos

When this route gets some more traffic and thus cleaning some dust and loose pebbles--and if there was a way to clean off the bird crap at the top--this could be top notch, four star awesomeness.

If you toprope it, there can be a lot of rope drag, which can be reduced if the leader can unclip the bolt under the roof. Oct 1, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
It is cleaner now, I guess, but the roof leaks bird droppings. Beware.

The bottom can go completely independent of the route to the right (Spike). It is probably only 5.7 to the "2nd" (first independent) bolt and would take a stopper or TCU down low if you wanted more.

It's presently pretty easy at the grade, maybe as a product of having cleaned up. Oct 15, 2017
Patrick Sherry
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Patrick Sherry   Denver, CO
  5.10b
The route is not in Rick Thompson's "Shelf Road Rock," (C) 2017. The excrement-covered crack/holds are not required for completing the route at its given grade. It's a good climb with some interesting, thoughtful movement. Mar 18, 2018
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
This route is really fun! Good jams down low and up top, after the ledge. I was tricked by the hangler-less bolt under the roof -- I thought the route was supposed to end there. Keep going, and step around the roof! There's great holds, and it's a good time. Apr 23, 2018