Type: Boulder
FA: climbingboulder.com
Page Views: 330 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rog on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Not really on the Contest Wall, but....

Go to the Sand Gulch Campground & find the conspicuous 'rock' that resembles a small house.

Attempt a complete traverse. It has been suggested to begin with a sit start.

Protection

A couple squares of Charmin, a noseplug for the faint of heart.

Photos

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Mister Hanky told me he did this 3 years ago and rated it 3rd-class + ! Apr 12, 2002
The same bouldering area can be found at the main Penitente parking area. Be cautious not to claim any first ascents on this feature...they have probably been done (perhaps by Estes Park legend Chris Banks). Mantle problems abound. Gill would be proud. Look for the Flying Dumpkin, Ring around the Toilet, and Souper Pooper.-JM Dec 2, 2003
Yes, these problems HAVE been done, years ago, on an identical boulder adjacent to the parking lot at Penitente Canyon. While I never wanted to claim the credit (and the resulting glory) for these fine problems, the recent submission by John "dumpkin-pants" Maurer detailing my shithouse bouldering prowess has forced me to "come clean".

Many fine problems exist, a few requiring spectacular, dynamic, opening moves involving running leaps off of small rocks near the boulder. In this regard, these problems are most likely different than those found at Shelf Road, except in the unlikely circumstance that the rocks surrounding Tthe Shelf Road outhouse are laid out in the exact configuration as at Penitente. If my memory serves me correct, any attempts at problems of this nature at Shelf Road would be quite painful indeed, requiring leaps off of the numerous clumps of cacti surrounding the boulder. Any problems attempted in this manner would be quite "sharp".

Any readers who have sampled the fine shithouse problems at Penitente Canyon are welcome to offer their opinions. Don't forget to sample the "the flying dumpkin", just be sure to make the mantle finish so you don't eat it.

spankybanks Jan 16, 2004
Darin Lang  
 
An excellent choice for beer-induced feats of strength. Might be a solid v-nought depending on one's BAC. Jun 3, 2004
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
A much harder start involves climbing the vent stack to the lip then doing the traverse. Give it a bearhug and start laybacking up. Burly! Jan 20, 2010
Tyler Scheer
Boulder. CO
Tyler Scheer   Boulder. CO
Great boulder, lots of eliminates. With a little effort this weekend, I pushed out a steaming hot new line on this one. Start on the sloping rail of the window-like feature closest to the cave-like entrance, bear down and pop one off to the top of the boulder, then traverse left to a series of low holds around it's belly. The crux comes in matching on the sloping rail of another window-like feature on the other side of the problem. If you have some gas left in the tank after the traverse, then squeeze out a final dyno to the top and mantle! If you've been eating your Wheaties, you should be able to avoid a blowout. Solid problem, four stars, very satisfying. Sep 19, 2011