Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: B. D'Antonio, M. Howard, V. Kodas, Fall, 2009
Page Views: 333 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

This is a bolted corner down low with some interesting face climbing up high make up this entertaining and long route.

Leave your rack at the car and clip six bolts as you climb up the fun corner while grabbing flakes, finger-locking and stemming your way up to a rest on a ledge about 2/3rds of the way up below the final face.
Commit to the face and make a couple of somewhat tricky moves past a faint bulge. Past the bulge, enjoy the final moves to the anchor.

Location

This lies in the corner between Turbo Road on the left wall and Cattle Prod on the right wall. It shares anchors with Turbo Road.

This route is not in the older Sharp End (Knapp) book but is in the new D'Antonio book.. The new D'Antonio book is great--buy it.

Protection

10 bolts to a chain anchor shared with Turbo Road.

Photos

Mike Howard    
 
Thanks, Jason, definitely a fun route as it was fun to set. That was me, Bob, and Vaino on a nice fall day in 2009. Sounds like the shoulder has rehab'ed well. Dec 29, 2010
Was just at Shelf Road and think I climbed this route but not positive. Is the ledge on the right which has cactus on it with the crux bulge right there, light colored face to dark bulge with pocket moves over to a crack at your left? I add a picture of me on the ledge before the crux of the route we climbed, if it's not this route, you can remove the photo. Apr 29, 2011
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10b PG13
A few hazards on this one.... Nov 30, 2012
a Ball
Denver, CO
a Ball   Denver, CO
Bottom 2/3s or so are really fun. Lots of loose stuff on the ledge right below the crux bolt. Good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet. Oct 8, 2013