Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Harvey Miller and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 1,480 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This was a fun route, for my partner. I left a lot of blood on this one when I created a spurting tip by grabbing a hold to quickly. It is on the arete right of Suburbia on Contest Wall. It has sequential and balancy climbing (Van Horn's words hold very true here). Watch out for sharp holds near the top (and near the top of many Shelf routes as they slab out).

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Nice one to do before jumping on Suburbia--which is right next to it. Pretty pumpy, little route! At the top, best to high step over the bulge, Watch out--pulling on some pretty sharp limestone. Mar 29, 2002
Huh... this one drew my blood as well! Nice little gusher, but I tried to keep it off the rock. The crux is interesting--look wide for holds.... Dec 29, 2002
A hard move and a haul to get to the 5th bolt only to find that the hanger spins like a wheel... yikes! Oct 18, 2004
FA Harvey Miller and ? Dec 31, 2004
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
Nice route, but felt damn hard for the grade compared to other 11- climbs I've done at Shelf. Jan 19, 2010
Hard for the grade but exceptionally good. Nov 25, 2011
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Ed, the "other" first ascentionist was Rich Aschert. Jun 21, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11a/b
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11a/b
I too felt this was harder than other shelf Road 11s. Might be a little easier if you move right at the crux. Going directly up the bolt line through the Crocs felt maybe 11c? Dec 3, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Pretty funny route. As an arete climb, it hides some solution pockets and holds in places...but it's pretty sweet! Apr 23, 2018