Type: Sport
FA: Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth
Page Views: 3,151 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

This is another nice climb about 1/2 way along Contest Wall, just left of Cactus Drop, Regroovable and Lime and Punishment. Start up the initial bulge with a powerful sequence past the first bolt to thin pocket and edge climbing up the blunt arete. A slightly hidden heuco near the third bolt provides a rest, otherwise the climbing is continous to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
I hated the contrived start (especially since it seemed so f---ing hard) but loved the thin, technical finish. More "b" than "a" in my book! Nov 6, 2001
Holds broke on the original straight-up start but it still goes. Better than the cheat out left Nov 6, 2001
Actually there's a pretty good rest between the fourth and fifth bold (or is it 3rd & 4th?) before the crux sequence. Seems like there are multiple versions of the start. I started just below the first bolt (aka on the left), grabbed the mail slot below the bolt, then moved right. Double clutch off the left hand gaston to a good small hold above, then its pretty reasonable. Crux moves are thin -- think feet, and there's still a sting in the tail at the end. Enjoyable! May 5, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.12b
Joe Collins  
  5.12b
Of the dozen or so routes I've done in Sand Gulch, this is my favorite. I was told that there haven't been any broken holds, but there used to be a large block you could stand on to reach the mailslot at the start.Pretty spooky finish. Jun 1, 2004
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
This is my favorite route in Sand Gulch. Sep 8, 2007
jhump
  5.12a/b
jhump  
  5.12a/b
This is the finest route I have done at Shelf so far (50 or so routes). This climb has it all. Begin with an engaging boulder problem right off the ground. Big moves on positive pockets lead to the arete. Delicate and technical moves finish it off. The finish will blow your mind- and maybe your onsight. Mar 4, 2009
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
 
So, just wondering if it would still count as send if pre-hung draws, including anchors, and clip anchors from the last good crimp and reach way up. In this case, one doesn't really move out left and back to anchors. I am asking this because if I pre-hang draws, I can clip the anchors, but without them, it would be 3 extra hard/scary moves and I wouldn't be able to clip the anchors from the last crimp. Apr 26, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Kai, What you did was a pinkpoint instead of a redpoint, but still a send. Congrats! Apr 27, 2009
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
 
Thanks. Right, that would be a pink point. However, I am just curious whether to call it a send/pink point or not if I can't make that traverse move to be able to clip draws at anchors. My buddy sent it that way, and I have worked out the beta and it will go next time. Apr 27, 2009
Got on this yesterday, blew my last attempt while trying to clip the anchors. Make sure to use that rest before the 2nd last draw or you may suffer the same fate! You can hang the draws by climbing Cactus Drop (10d) beside it. Apr 15, 2013
slim

  5.12a/b
slim    
  5.12a/b
Superb route. Fun boulder problem at the start can be done a bunch of ways, just have to figure out the best way for the individual. The climbing above that is kind of tough - tricky feet. Top section is pretty intense. This would be a proud onsight, as you can't really see what's coming at you during some of the harder climbing. Oct 31, 2013
ebethreegs
5.12b
ebethreegs  
5.12b
I found the start confusing. When we got there, a guy told me to start on the left, which felt mega hard. So I tried the right, which was still challenging, but do-able. Any insights? Great route... after the start. Feb 5, 2018
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Reeeally good route! Beta coming up!

I started directly under the first bolt. Some bouldery moves lead to the slot below the first bolt, then I used the undercling to get my right hand deep into a slopey pocket. A strenuous left crimp situates you under the jug on the right, which is a good throw away. I think there's many ways to do this part of the route, including using a tough right pinch.

The rest of the route is easier, and reeeally fun! There's plenty of rests along the way. Do it! Apr 23, 2018