Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,643 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This route is on Contest Wall, the left side of Sand Gulch. It ascends a blunt arete near the beginning of the wall, a large block which makes a great belay lounger with the right padding sits just below the climb. A good route with technical and continous moves.

Protection

6 bolts plus 2 bold anchor.

Location

Per Jason Halladay: The route is on the south end of Contest Wall (west side of canyon). It starts directly above a nice, huge belay boulder. Look for an old hangerless bolt on top of the boulder and a bolt and hanger on the uphill end of the boulder at ground level for belaying. The route is right above this boulder.

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This is a superb route. Technical and sustained moves throuhout on good pockets with long reaches. For a 10+ this is a must do climb!! It deserves three stars. Oct 12, 2001
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
A way-fun bouldery start with two great pockets for hands gets you off the ground past the undercut start to a high first bolt. From there, it's climbing on an improbable-looking, smooth face with good edges to a some steep but nicely-pocketed moves above to sharp rock to the finish.

The route is on the south end of Contest Wall (west side of canyon). It starts directly above a nice, huge belay boulder. Look for an old hangerless bolt on top of the boulder and a bolt and hanger on the uphill end of the boulder at ground level for belaying. The route is right above this boulder.

7(?) bolts to a bolted anchor. The anchor setup is a bit awkward with one high bolt and one low bolt, but it works.

This is one of my favorite routes at Shelf yet. It's got nice variety with a puzzling crux going from the fourth to fifth bolt that's fun once figured out. Nov 13, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
I have added this route as a favorite at Shelf, also. From a first look, the route looked difficult but as I started climbing, nice ledges and pockets appeared. I enjoyed the start. Nov 13, 2007
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
Are you supposed to start this from the ground or from the boulder? It seemed way harder than 10d either way. Oct 10, 2011