Type: Sport
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 885 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Most trips to the Contest Wall in Sand Gulch lead me to Farts. Loads better than the name might indicate, Farts of Horsemen is near the North end of the canyon but well before the cross-over trail. Climbing is on a dark, inset wall off a mound/block above the trail, and Farts shares an anchor with No Tomorrow, on the right.

Start off on a small section of less than optimal stone, and make a right traverse on crystals and friable appearing stone. For me, the hard climbing starts just as soon as you step over right. A bit of seam gets things going, and the opening moves feel 5.12a to me. Climbing after the first 30 feet settles down a bit but never drops below middle 5.11. The climbing is interesting and varied on crystals, cobbles, and shallow pockets.

Overall, the continuity is excellent, and Farts gives up very little rest. For my preferred style of climbing, I would rank Farts on par with Little Mecca for overall quality, soundness of the stone, continuity, and interesting moves. This is an excellent line.

Protection

Ten or so draws and a rope.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
opening crux technical sequence above the rotten shelf felt a bit awkward and desperate, with off-balance layaways, and tricky feetwork.
Getting to the anchors directly i admit to be height-dependent, cranking off the last good mono, i skipped the weird left-facing slopey flake, and up to a good crimp below the anchor bolts. Jun 15, 2009
Darryl Roth  
 
I was pleased when Todd Skinner broke into laughter (as was common for Todd) as he told me he was bummed to not have thought of it for a route name of his own. The name is a play on "Tarts of Horsham" at Hueco. Sep 20, 2014
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.12a/b
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.12a/b
Great route. If you like techy climbing, hop on it. Apr 1, 2018