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Routes in Contest Wall

9 to 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Agent Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apple Bites Back, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apple Jam T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aretissima S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Armistice (AKA The Armisist) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awakenings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Froggy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bitten by a Manpris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cactus Carrie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Drop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cattle Prod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cave Troll S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cumulocrimpus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curious George S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Crack S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dough Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Howard's Digital Exam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dune, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Enterprise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Farts of Horsemen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fossil Fueled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotham City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Cru S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hide n' Seek S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Pockets S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Holy Sheath S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It's Miller Time S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jelly Bellies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump for Cholla T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knot Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lime and Punishment S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Lady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Limestone Politician S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Pork S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
List, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Mecca S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Little Red Badge of Courage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metropolis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Monster Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Route (a.k.a. Black Rib) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Place For a Lady S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Place for a Gentleman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
No Tomorrow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not So Killer Bees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pesko Sour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Phase Dance S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Laureate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Porkus Non Grata S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Primal Urge S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Regroovable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Renaissance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
River of Rabbits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scary Carrie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shithouse Traverse V0- 4-
Short Slaughter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Silverado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Single Gun Theory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slamdance Cosmopolis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slipper Queen S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice is Nice S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spike aka BR 1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spinney Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sprayburn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strangeways T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suburbia S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Taos Hum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Time Square S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tinsel Town aka BR 2? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Fun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trick-or-Treat TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truancy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Turbo Road S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Vail Athletic Club S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wee Man S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Snooze, You Lose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Bob Robertson and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 3,767 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a SUPERB route, if you are into the grade and are at the Contest Wall, do this route for sure. The crux comes early and there are great moves throughout this route.

This route starts with the crux, getting to and past the first bolt then is in your face again at the last bolt, finishing with a great mantle/heel hook for shorter people. This route is very well sustained and will be enjoyable for all. It is on my top 10 list for Shelf Road so far....

Location

This route is located next to the excellent 'Suburbia', which is about at the middle of the Contest wall, located about 100' before the obvious pillar.

Protection

4-5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
It is a V3 off the ground into an 11b. Make sure those tendons are warm before you hop on! Bolt placements are perfect. No danger or scary factor at all after the crux. Mar 27, 2017
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
If you are under 5.10, the upper crux feels substantially harder. Nonetheless, this is a great route. Go climb it! (Also, I agree about the first bolt placement. Should be able to clip while standing on the flake, and should be further right) - it's funny that people have been saying that now for 13 years with no change, haha. Mar 20, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
 
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
 
I agree with Adam Keifenheim above. If bolts are placed for "character" and not for safety, then why the hell place any bolts at all? A 5.14 climber can go and bolt a 100-ft 5.6 with just one bolt half way up and call it "character". Nov 7, 2015
I'm going to have to politely disagree. I feel that if the first bolt could use a crash pad, and there's a more protective place to put it, then it can be moved (assuming the FA'er and Bolter don't mind).

I would agree with you if this was the third bolt where there is not groundfall potential, but there is. You might not deck, but it is probably too risky and any slack or a light belayer makes it dangerous for the ankles. Plus, it's the hardest move on the route, and there's an easy place to put it where it would offer more protection.

I love the route, I just think that modern placement of the first bolt would improve the route in terms of enjoyment and safety. Feb 25, 2015
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.] Feb 24, 2015
Great route and great moves, but the first bolt is a problem. It is 3' too far left and probably 6" too low and at the bouldery crux, no less. Should probably be moved. Feb 24, 2015
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Super fun line! The start (1st-2nd) bolt is definitely the first crux. The rest is mid-11 and stays pretty sustained the entire way. At the end, I tried a hook/mantle combo, and it didn't work out so well, so I worked the big jug out left until I could stand on it and then went back right to the anchors. Missed the OS and nearly nailed it the second time. I'll be back soon. Have fun! Dec 16, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
11+ OS. Shelf Road classic. May 15, 2013
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
No kidding, right? Or perhaps he should go down to Thunder and get on a Glen Schuler route before making assinine comments on a public forum. May 1, 2013
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
5.11c
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
5.11c
A tad soft. 11c. May 1, 2013
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Ben- pretty sure Glenn was running about down there about the time you were toddling around in diapers. Metropolis was an early must-do, would not be surprised he's done it numerous times. May 1, 2013
Eckhard
Denver, CO
  5.11d
Eckhard   Denver, CO
  5.11d
5? bolts, I believe. 2 down low, big gap, then 3 more and anchor. Bottom seems like the crux, but continuous 5.11c after the second bolt, I thought. Nov 1, 2010
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
 
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
 
I thought the crux was at the last bolt, at least for me. Skip the clip until your above the last bolt (felt easer than cliping before for me). Apr 7, 2008
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
  5.11d
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
  5.11d
After the boulder problem start, the rest of the climb goes at 10+/11-. Placement of the 1st bolt is very poor relative to the holds (bolt should be well to the right of its current location). Nov 8, 2004
A crimpy step left at the first bolt leads to moderate climbing until the going gets thin again after the third bolt. Make sure to save some steam for the tricky mantle just below the anchors! Excellent! Oct 18, 2004