Type: Sport
FA: Bob Robertson and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 4,132 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Jul 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

120 Opinions

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This is a SUPERB route, if you are into the grade and are at the Contest Wall, do this route for sure. The crux comes early and there are great moves throughout this route.

This route starts with the crux, getting to and past the first bolt then is in your face again at the last bolt, finishing with a great mantle/heel hook for shorter people. This route is very well sustained and will be enjoyable for all. It is on my top 10 list for Shelf Road so far....


This route is located next to the excellent 'Suburbia', which is about at the middle of the Contest wall, located about 100' before the obvious pillar.


4-5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


A crimpy step left at the first bolt leads to moderate climbing until the going gets thin again after the third bolt. Make sure to save some steam for the tricky mantle just below the anchors! Excellent! Oct 18, 2004
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
After the boulder problem start, the rest of the climb goes at 10+/11-. Placement of the 1st bolt is very poor relative to the holds (bolt should be well to the right of its current location). Nov 8, 2004
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
I thought the crux was at the last bolt, at least for me. Skip the clip until your above the last bolt (felt easer than cliping before for me). Apr 7, 2008
Denver, CO
Eckhard   Denver, CO
5? bolts, I believe. 2 down low, big gap, then 3 more and anchor. Bottom seems like the crux, but continuous 5.11c after the second bolt, I thought. Nov 1, 2010
Brother Numsie
Brother Numsie   AnCapistan
Ben- pretty sure Glenn was running about down there about the time you were toddling around in diapers. Metropolis was an early must-do, would not be surprised he's done it numerous times. May 1, 2013
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
A tad soft. 11c. May 1, 2013
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
No kidding, right? Or perhaps he should go down to Thunder and get on a Glen Schuler route before making assinine comments on a public forum. May 1, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
11+ OS. Shelf Road classic. May 15, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Super fun line! The start (1st-2nd) bolt is definitely the first crux. The rest is mid-11 and stays pretty sustained the entire way. At the end, I tried a hook/mantle combo, and it didn't work out so well, so I worked the big jug out left until I could stand on it and then went back right to the anchors. Missed the OS and nearly nailed it the second time. I'll be back soon. Have fun! Dec 16, 2013
Great route and great moves, but the first bolt is a problem. It is 3' too far left and probably 6" too low and at the bouldery crux, no less. Should probably be moved. Feb 24, 2015
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.] Feb 24, 2015
I'm going to have to politely disagree. I feel that if the first bolt could use a crash pad, and there's a more protective place to put it, then it can be moved (assuming the FA'er and Bolter don't mind).

I would agree with you if this was the third bolt where there is not groundfall potential, but there is. You might not deck, but it is probably too risky and any slack or a light belayer makes it dangerous for the ankles. Plus, it's the hardest move on the route, and there's an easy place to put it where it would offer more protection.

I love the route, I just think that modern placement of the first bolt would improve the route in terms of enjoyment and safety. Feb 25, 2015
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
I agree with Adam Keifenheim above. If bolts are placed for "character" and not for safety, then why the hell place any bolts at all? A 5.14 climber can go and bolt a 100-ft 5.6 with just one bolt half way up and call it "character". Nov 7, 2015
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
If you are under 5.10, the upper crux feels substantially harder. Nonetheless, this is a great route. Go climb it! (Also, I agree about the first bolt placement. Should be able to clip while standing on the flake, and should be further right) - it's funny that people have been saying that now for 13 years with no change, haha. Mar 20, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
It is a V3 off the ground into an 11b. Make sure those tendons are warm before you hop on! Only the first bolt placement is a bit weird but still a safe fall! Mar 27, 2017
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
Extremely good. Look out for those flakes near the top! Apr 23, 2018