Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Robertson
Page Views: 2,093 total · 18/month
Shared By: KateC on Mar 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

This is a long, new route that follows tons of huge sandy pockets up a bulging face, and ends above a big (4ft) roof. There is a bolt on the right side of the roof if you want a "safer" lead and climb out right. The anchors are on a nice shelf directly over the roof and the rest of the climb.

Location

This route is located between Miller Time and Cactus Carrie.

Protection

It has lots of new, shiny bolts.

Photos

Noah G
Alma, Co
Noah G   Alma, Co
This line should never have been bolted despite how appealing it looks from the ground. Dirty loose rock that will never clean up to a barely attached pillar with bolts in it, waiting to dump tons of rock on belayer and passers by. I downclimbed for fear of potentially falling on one of these bolts. Thanks to the equipper for the hard work, but no thanks. Sep 27, 2009
This route is immediately left of Spiney Dan. Yes, there is a dangerous detached column you have to deal with about 1/2 way up and extending above the traverse left to the anchors. We were concerned enough to alert the party next door on S Dan to possible rockfall. Probably wouldn't get on it again. May 23, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I believe this is called BR 2 in the D'Antonio guide. I enjoyed this, but perhaps I'm way more tolerant than others of sketchy rock. The overhanging pockety (but sandy) rock at the bottom was cool looking and fun to climb. If I was trad climbing, I would have wrapped a long sling around the semi detached pillar near the top, at the roof. We went around the roof on the right, not realizing the route was meant to climb the roof. After going around the roof on the right it felt pretty silly stepping straight left to the anchors. Mar 21, 2011
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9-
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.9-
You can see why someone would want to bolt this when looking up at. It just looks fun. The movement is great. The rock is pretty chossy, though. And, because the bolting spreads out as you go up (very nicely, btw), the questionable rock adds a bit of spice factor.

That pillar is cool and a little bit eerie. I hope I'm not around when it comes down...and, it's hard to imagine it will be there for a long time.

If this climb were on solid rock, it would be 4 stars. May 9, 2011
josh pranckun
Denver
josh pranckun   Denver
Unique rock texture for Shelf Road, which really entices you to climb it. But there is a lot of loose rock - someone in our group pulled off a softball. Jul 22, 2011
John Maurer
Denver, CO
John Maurer   Denver, CO
I hesitate to rate this route in fear it may attract attention. I'd hate to encourage anyone to get on this and then have them get hurt. I really enjoyed this route - but there are sections that feel extremely dangerous. One bolt in particular is in a very large section of weak, undercut rock - better perhaps not to clip it. I would not climb this if it is crowded in the area.

All that said, this route feels like some soft Garden route. It probably is a bomb to many, but the moves and questionable nature of some sections add to its character. Not for everyone - but certainly for someone. I thought it was very entertaining. Pull gently. Three stars . . . or a bomb. Feb 19, 2012
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
Sandy, Yes! Some choss, Yes! Fun, YES! Great route. In January 2013, two bolts were added, and some cleanup to the rock took place. Should climb better than what you hear from the last comments. Pulling the roof was the crux but way fun. Mar 4, 2013
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Total pile. 9 out of 10 roadcuts have better rock quality than this thing. Mar 4, 2013
A Robertson route named "Tinsel Town." Oct 12, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Bit of a chossy and sandy fee but still super fun! I would still recommend it. I think that with the traffic lately it's cleaned up a bit, because I didn't find anything loose today or had the fear of a bolt/hold pulling. Also, there were numerous bolts and the perfect distances away, nothing to worry about. Go do it! Dec 16, 2013
eric kramak
Denver, Colorado
eric kramak   Denver, Colorado
Little bit of sand, little bit of choss (less than The Dune), and a whole lot of fun. Seems pretty safe if you're comfortable at the grade. Mar 30, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
The rock does look like choss, but I think with all the traffic this route has cleaned up quite a bit now. I didn't find any loose rock on this today. Nov 7, 2015
Evan Crumpecker
Colorado Springs
 
Evan Crumpecker   Colorado Springs
 
I also think this has cleaned up nicely. The pockets / jugs down low are a bit sandy and made me climb a bit gingerly, but I wasn't too worried and the climbing was great. It's basically a gym climb with a fun roof to crank on over the top. Not sure what pillar people are talking about in previous comments, I went straight up the roof (which has a perfectly placed bolt guiding the way) and didn't notice anything too precarious. Mar 14, 2016
Jake Web
Denver, CO
Jake Web   Denver, CO
I absolutely loved this climb! Easy vertical climbing and the roof was super fun being a 5.9. IDK what Noah is talking about. I liked it. Oct 13, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
TOO FUN!!! Get on it. The rock is solid to climb on with basic common sense. Great end of the day line. Mar 27, 2017
The rock felt solid, big rock spike in the middle with chalk X that is going to come down if anyone steps on it. As of Oct. 21, 2018, the second bolt is missing a hanger. The third bolt is only about 20ish off the ground on good holds, so it's not a huge deal for those solid at the grade. Really fun route, the roof is easier than it looks. Oct 22, 2018
Alex Costakis
Denver, CO
 
Alex Costakis   Denver, CO
 
This must have cleaned up a bit. Stay on route and avoid the X'd horizontal spike. The second bolt is still missing a hanger, so you'll be soloing from bolt 1 to 3. Oct 29, 2018