Type: Sport
FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988
Page Views: 810 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on May 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This is a vastly sandbagged climb at Shelf! It is three climbs in one with three cruxes. Do a boulder problem start. There is a difficult mid-way sequence with possible ledge out and a final roof problem.

Location

It is at the far North end of the Contest Wall (west side of Sand Gulch).

Protection

8-10 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Paul Lanz  
 
FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988. Dec 19, 2012
damonachey Achey
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c/d
damonachey Achey   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c/d
This is a great route, but the 'hangers' are down-right scary. They almost look like hand cut sheet metal (not like other angle iron hangers in the area) bent 90 degrees with a hole drilled in them with no markings or ratings.

In addition, the third bolt at the end of a large runout that protects the crux moves will flex with a light bouncing from a static hang under my weight of only 140 lbs.

Nice route, but be careful. Aug 5, 2013
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Nice line..I remember the spooky clip above the ledge..off of a little crimp! Feb 28, 2014
Bill Czajkowski
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a/b
Bill Czajkowski   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a/b
8 bolts with groundfall potential around bolt 3 and ledgefall potential in two places. The new guide says good pockets after the first ledge, and that was true, but they ran out pretty quickly making clip 4 pretty desperate and 5 a little less so, and one of those weird sheet metal hangers held my 190 lbs. for a couple of falls, but they are a little disconcerting. Oct 1, 2014
Jacob Tarazoff
Santa Fe, NM
 
Jacob Tarazoff   Santa Fe, NM
 
Great route! I took the fall on the last clip on the middle headwall (5th clip?). Super clean and fun fall. The hangers seem good to me, 165 lbs. 5.12a. Sep 15, 2015